Front Safari Windows

Front Safari Windows

Safaris let those warm, palmy breezes blow through your bus. Kits come complete with glass, seals and all necessary mounting hardware. The latch tabs easily screws into the dash, but we suggest you weld in... Click here for more information

Starting at: $450.95


Front End

Ball Joints
Ball Joints

These joints are located in the ends of the control arms. You will need a press and some special tools to replace the joints on a standard Bug. Note: Remove the boot before you press the joint in the arm  more >>

 
Front Wheel Bearings
Front Wheel Bearings

These bearings go in the drum or rotor hub to allow them to spin. Make sure you pack the bearings well before installing. When installing outer races make sure you do not scar the surface the bearing rides on. It  more >>

 
Front Bearing Lock Nuts
Front Bearing Lock Nuts

This nut holds the front drum on. On king and link pin front ends there are two nuts per side. On the driver's side the nuts are a reverse thread. See FRONT DRUMS on how to tighten the nuts.  more >>

 
Knee Protector
Knee Protector

This rubber collar goes around the bracket that holds the steering column. It keeps your knee from getting bruised if you happen to hit it on your way in or out of the bus.  more >>

 
Drag Link
Drag Link

This rod goes between the steering box and the center pin. It has two tie rod ends that can wear out. To check yours, have a friend turn the steering wheel back and forth a little. Place your hand on  more >>

 
Tie Rods with Ends
Tie Rods with Ends

These two rods go from the center pin on a Bus or the pitman arm on a Bug, to the spindles, making the car turn. To inspect the rods, have a friend turn the steering wheel back and forth a  more >>

 
Tie Rod Ends
Tie Rod Ends

These are the ball joints on the tie rods. To check the tie rod ends see: TIE RODS WITH ENDS. On some stock tie rods, the ends don't come off and you will need to replace the entire tie rod.  more >>

 
Steering Dampers
Steering Dampers

This little shock goes from the center pin arm or pitman arm to the front axle beam or frame. To check disconnect yours from the beam or frame and push it in and out. If it goes in and out  more >>

 
Front Beam With Adjusters
Front Beam With Adjusters

This is a brand new axle beam with adjusters already installed. Adjustment is achieved by moving the center block. Note: The farther you adjust it down, the rougher the ride.  more >>

 
Long Travel Front End Kit
Long Travel Front End Kit

This kit extends the shock towers of your king and link pin front end, giving you more travel. Take your time setting this kit up. We suggest you tack weld it on, set the arms and shocks up and  more >>

 
Front Torsion Bar Adjusters
Front Torsion Bar Adjusters

This is the way to go if you want an adjustable front beam. These adjusters take the place of the stock anchor in the middle of each one of the front tubes. They need to be welded in. This should  more >>

 
Caster Shims
Caster Shims

If the front end of your car sits further down then the rear end, caster shims will help by pushing out the bottom of the beam. This puts caster back into the front beam, allowing you to steer your car  more >>

 
Front End Clamps
Front End Clamps

These clamps are made to go around your front axle beam and are used when building rail cars or stiffening up the front head of a baja Bug.  more >>

 
Aluminum Link-pin Front Axle Beam
Aluminum Link-pin Front Axle Beam

This beam is a weight saver on sand buggies. Beams come with or without shock towers. If you want to add a steering damper you'll have to buy the damper bracket. You should'nt use these beams on bajas or any  more >>

 
Narrowed adjustable front beam
Narrowed adjustable front beam

This is a brand new beam that has been narrowed 2 inches and has Avis style adjusters already installed. It is made for 1955 to 1965. You can make it work on a 1966-1967 by pressing off the sleeves that  more >>

 
Front End Support Braces
Front End Support Braces

These go from the front beam to the belly pan to strengthen the front beam area. The lowers are a straight bolt on, but the upper braces will require you to drill holes.  more >>

 
Long Travel Front End Stops
Long Travel Front End Stops

This is a stop kit that welds on to the LONG TRAVEL FRONT END KIT to limit the upward and downward travel of your front arms.  more >>

 
Urethane Front Arm Bushings
Urethane Front Arm Bushings

If your stock bushings are worn out or you have an aluminum beam, we offer the following urethane bushings and replacements.  more >>

 
Urethane Front Arm Seals
Urethane Front Arm Seals

These seals are far better than the stock arm seals. Sold in sets of four.  more >>

 
Front Arm Seals Stock
Front Arm Seals Stock

These seals go around the arms to keep the dirt out of the front beam. Used seals are fine as long as they are pliable and not cracked.  more >>

 
Urethane Front Suspension Stops
Urethane Front Suspension Stops

These snubbers last a lot longer than stock snubbers. To install them, you will have to get the upper arm off the snubber. If the old snubber is there, cut it off. Put some oil in the hole of the  more >>

 
Front Suspension Stops Stock
Front Suspension Stops Stock

These are the rubber snubbers that are in between the front torsion bar arms. They prevent the arms from topping out or bottoming out on king and link pin front ends. To get the old ones off use a sharp  more >>

 
Ball Joint Spindles Stock
Ball Joint Spindles Stock

These are the front spindles that your brake discs mount to. The only reason for replacing them on your 66 and later Bug is if they got bent or a bearing froze on it. Remember the driver's side is reverse  more >>

 
Ball Joint Spindle Eccentrics
Ball Joint Spindle Eccentrics

The eccentrics set the camber on ball joint front ends. These eccentrics have more of an off-set than the stock eccentrics. By rotating this eccentric, it moves the bottom of the tire in or out. For those of you "slamming"  more >>

 
Lowered Ball Joints
Lowered Ball Joints

These ball joints have more travel in them than stock ball joints. If you are lowering your beam with adjusters or "slamming" your car, you need lowered ball joints.  more >>

 
Ball Joint Arms With Lowered Joints
Ball Joint Arms With Lowered Joints

These are new lowered ball joints pressed into reconditioned arms. They are sold in sets of 4 on an exchange basis and come with the alignment eccentrics. Just pull your old arms off and install the new ones. Ball joints  more >>

 
Reconditioned Ball Joint Arms
Reconditioned Ball Joint Arms

These are reconditioned arms with new ball joints pressed in. They are sold on an exchange basis and come with the alignment eccentrics. Just pull your old arms off and install the new ones. Ball joints are hard to check,  more >>

 
Link Pin Seal
Link Pin Seal

This seal goes between the arm and the spindle on buses with king and link pin front ends. It's a good idea to replace them when redoing the spindles. You will need 4 of them.  more >>

 
Front Brake Drums
Front Brake Drums

These are the front drums that the brake shoes ride on. Note: Don't over tighten the bearing nut, just snug it down against the bearing thrust washer. Now line up the handle of your wrench with one of the five  more >>

 
Steering Box Column Seal
Steering Box Column Seal

This rubber seal goes around the steering column to seal off air coming through the floor. You?ll need to take off a lot of parts to put his seal on, so if you?re replacing the steering box it?d be  more >>

 

 

Goto Page: 1  2  3