This makes the rear window pop out like the front windows. There are two tabs that will have to be welded in and the rest of the kit screws in. We don't recommend you open... Click here for more information
This screw rides against your valve, opening and closing it. These screws do wear out, so check the end that rides on the valve. If you see any pits in the adjusting screw, you will need to replace it. We're not big fans of the stock adjusting screws and feel you are much better off with swivel feet adjusting screws. You'll find SWIVEL FEET ADJUSTERS in the aftermarket section. Also take a look at the jam nuts. If the corners of a nut are rounded off, replace it; it'll save your knuckles. When you tighten the nuts, remember that snug is fine; you don't have to gorilla them tight. To adjust your valves; pop the cap off your distributor, turn your motor over by hand until the rotor lines up with the #1 wire. You should see a small line on the distributor body and the crank pulley notch should line up with the split in the case. Take off the valve cover on the #1 - #2 side (passenger's side). Adjust #1 intake and exhaust to .006". If you are not sure on your feel with the gauge, try and slide a .007" gauge in. If the .007" gauge fits, you're too loose. With #1 done, rotate the motor by hand counterclockwise 180 degrees and adjust #2 intake and exhaust. Clean your valve cover and install a new gasket. Put that cover back on. Now pop off the #3 - #4 valve cover. Rotate the motor again counterclockwise 180 degrees and adjust #3. Rotate motor again counterclockwise 180 degrees and do #4. Put a new gasket in the valve cover and pop it back on. Put your cap back on the distributor and you are done.
This item is available for:
These nuts prevent oil from leaking around the oil pump studs. They should be replaced every time you take the oil pump and/or cover off. Note: The red side of the nut goes towards the cover and washers are not used.
This item is available for:
This nut holds the front drum on. On king and link pin front ends there are two nuts per side. On the driver's side the nuts are a reverse thread. See FRONT DRUMS on how to tighten the nuts.
This item is available for:
A very important nut to say the least. This nut holds the rear brake drum on, so be sure to torque the axle nut to 250 ft. lb. We don't want any wheels falling off. We also suggest you drive the car for a day and tighten the nut again, because for some reason, they always seem to loosen up the first time. Always use a cotter pin to lock the nut. If you find the hole doesn't line up, tighten it a little more until it does. Never, ever back the nut off to line up the hole.
This item is available for:
This adjustment nut goes on the end of the cable, back by the transmission. Always use some grease on the threads to make further adjustments easier. Tighten the nut until you can barely move the arm (about 1/8"). This adjustment translates into 2" of freeplay at the top of the clutch pedal.
This item is available for:
Some of the more common nuts you might need.
This item is available for:
This is the washer used under the nuts on cases that use an o-ring on the center main studs. Note: If you are using case half sealing nuts do not use these washers.
This item is available for:
These nuts are used on cases without o-rings, usually 36hp, 40hp and early 1300cc. They are used for the six main case studs in the middle. The nuts should be replaced anytime the case halves are split. Note: Do not use a washer under the nuts. The red side of the nut goes towards the case. 1500 and 1600cc motors do not use these.
This item is available for:
These nuts and washers hold the heads on. The washers are thick so they won't deform under heat and torque. The torque on 10mm nuts is 28 ft. lb. and the 8mm nuts is 18 ft.lb. One trick is to use 3M glue on the bottom of the washers in the rocker area to prevent leaking through the head.
This item is available for:
These are two of the different types of exhaust nuts. If you are running a larger tubing size on your exhaust, then we suggest using the 12mm or the 11mm nuts. The copper ones don't back off, but we find when you want to take them off, they tend to pull the stud so we like the steel ones better.
This item is available for:
These are studs and nuts for different types of wheels. When using screw in studs, use loctite on the threads that go into the drum and a spot of grease or anti sqeeze on the nut threads. We have seen alot of times when the studs screw into far and wipe out your brakes.
This item is available for:
These two nuts hold the cover on that goes over the wiring in the trunk. They are knurled so you can take them on and off with your fingers.
This item is available for:
HOME
|
CATALOGS
|
STEVE'S STUFF
|
WAY-FAST WOLFGANG
|
CONTACT WOLFGANG
|
POLICIES
|
INTERESTING LINKS
GANG MEMBERS
|
TECH-TIPS
|
TORQUE SPECS
|
ENGINE INFORMATION
|
SHOPPING CART
WOLFGANG INTERNATIONAL is not, in any way, licensed, sponsored, endorsed or affiliated with Volkswagen and the parts herein offered for sale are not Genuine Volkswagen parts. All prices quoted are in US Dollars and are subject to change without notice.
Entire Site Copyright © 2008 Wolfgang International | Site Design By: 1027 Design