These aftermarket scripts easily attach to your hood or anywhere else you choose to put them.... Click here for more information
This screw rides against your valve, opening and closing it. These screws do wear out, so check the end that rides on the valve. If you see any pits in the adjusting screw, you will need to replace it. We're not big fans of the stock adjusting screws and feel you are much better off with swivel feet adjusting screws. You'll find SWIVEL FEET ADJUSTERS in the aftermarket section. Also take a look at the jam nuts. If the corners of a nut are rounded off, replace it; it'll save your knuckles. When you tighten the nuts, remember that snug is fine; you don't have to gorilla them tight. To adjust your valves; pop the cap off your distributor, turn your motor over by hand until the rotor lines up with the #1 wire. You should see a small line on the distributor body and the crank pulley notch should line up with the split in the case. Take off the valve cover on the #1 - #2 side (passenger's side). Adjust #1 intake and exhaust to .006". If you are not sure on your feel with the gauge, try and slide a .007" gauge in. If the .007" gauge fits, you're too loose. With #1 done, rotate the motor by hand counterclockwise 180 degrees and adjust #2 intake and exhaust. Clean your valve cover and install a new gasket. Put that cover back on. Now pop off the #3 - #4 valve cover. Rotate the motor again counterclockwise 180 degrees and adjust #3. Rotate motor again counterclockwise 180 degrees and do #4. Put a new gasket in the valve cover and pop it back on. Put your cap back on the distributor and you are done.
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These are the screws and adjusting stars that freeze up and keep you from adjusting your brakes. If you are replacing your brake shoes, make sure you take these out and clean them up. Grease the threads of the screw and the side of the star where it goes into the backing plate. Anti-Seize works really well.
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This is a list of the most common screws you might need.
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This style of adjusting screw has a ball with a flat side on the end. It's the flat side that hits the valve. They're a must if you are using stainless steel valves. Some clearancing of the rocker is necessary to run these screws and the valve geometry is very important. When you get them set up correctly, they're the trick way to go. The screws are 8mm.
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This chrome screw holds the head light bucket on. There is a spacer between the fender and the bucket.
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