<![CDATA[My blog]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog Sun, 22 Sep 2019 00:34:34 GMT Sun, 22 Sep 2019 00:34:34 GMT LemonStand <![CDATA[Building an Engine Run Stand. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbuilding-an-engine-run-stand-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbuilding-an-engine-run-stand-air-tech Mon, 09 Sep 2019 00:00:00 GMT Building an Engine Run Stand.

 

In this article I’m going to talk about a run stand for engines. I will also show you how I built mine. Is it the best one out there? I doubt it. I built it 30 years ago and still use it. I won’t let a motor leave my shop without it being on it. 

 

So what is a run stand? Well it’s a stand we can run a motor on before we ever put the motor in the car. This way we can tune the motor, timing, adjust valves, adjust carb(s), make sure the charging system is working, and check for leaks. The other nice thing here is we can “break the motor in” without having to put it in the car. 

So what does it take to make one of these stands? There are a lot of ways to do it, but I will explain what I did. The first thing to do is get a parts list together. I started with an 002 bus bellhousing. Why? Well it has a flat back to it and was easy for me to bolt to a flat plate. The motor bolts to it and the starter pocket is already there. It’s an easy way to go. Now let’s build.

 

Let’s talk about what you want it to monitor. At minimum you should have oil pressure, oil temp, volt meter and a tachometer. I’m a gauge nut so mine has too many. With the gauges you will want two idiot lights. I use orange and red. You will want a push button switch that can handle some amps. I use two switches on mine. One on/off switch. This turns on the gauges. Why? Well if I have a motor that is bone stock and doesn’t have gauge sending units then I just leave that switch off. Then I have a switch that is off/on/on. So three positions. Again, why? Well the first pull up on that switch gives me the idiot lights and the gauges if that switch is on, but no ignition power. That way I can turn the motor over without it firing. Why would you want to do that? To get oil pressure. Once I have pressure, I put the switch all the way up and now I have ignition power. Push the starter button and fire it up. 

 

Some other things we need to think about. We will need a 12 volt battery and a small gas tank. A one gallon tank is more than enough. Just get what’s cheap, it doesn’t need to be fancy, but I’m not a huge fan of the plastic gas can sitting next to the motor with a hose in it. It works but in my opinion it’s too easy to trip over or cause a hazard. I mounted the tank above the motor so there were no priming problems. Make sure you put an on/off valve on it. Also on the battery I have a main disconnect switch. If things go bad you can always cut all power with that. That’s about all the parts you need to gather before I would start. 

 

Now let’s decide how we want to build this. I wanted my motor up so it was easy to work around and on wheels so I could wheel it outside. I also wanted an open front so I could use a jack and put the motor up on without having to pick it up by hand. I put flat plates on the upper rails so it would catch the heater boxes if I just wanted to set the motor on the stand without bolting it to the bell housing. On the back side I made an area for a voltage regulator and a battery.I made the gauge panel able to rotate so if I’m on the side of the motor I can still watch the gauges easily. I also put a system one filter on the stand so I can check the filter after running it.

For the wiring I used an old harness from a bug and cut out what I needed. This way the color codes match what is (or should be) on the car. Just as a reminder: Red is hot all the time, black is hot with the switch on, and brown is ground. 

 

Here is what I did:

  • Red (10 gauge) Regulator to D+ on Genertor or B+ to battery if an alternator 

  • Light blue (14 gauge) Regulator to DF on Generator or (push on) on alternator to idiot light.

  • Black (12 gauge) from ignition power side of switch to the positive side of coil (15)

  • Green (12 gauge) from tach to negative side of coil (1)

  • Blue with yellow strip (14 gauge) from idiot light to oil pressure sender (gauge sender is marked (WK) if it is stock sender then the push on

  • Dark blue (12) gauge from the oil pressure gauge to the (G) on a gauge sender.

  • Yellow (12 gauge) from oil temp gauge to oil temp sender.

 

That’s it for the motor to that gauge and switch panel The rest is up to you. The only tricks I use here is on the oil pressure wire (blue with a yellow strip) I use a push on spade connector. That way it slides right onto the stock sender. Now when I use a gauge sender I have a terminal that slides into my push on and converts it to and eye style end. That way I am not cutting wires all the time.  The other trick here is I make some connectors that will bypass the voltage regulator when I am running an alternator. The rest of the wiring is up to you. 

 

Remember that hardest part about wiring is getting the smoke back in the wire. It’s not a bad idea to put a 30 amp fuse in the main line from the battery. If you are doing more than one motor this is a great tool to have. Mine has lasted 30 years now and I have to say we use it at least once a week. Here are some pictures of the old gal, be gentle she is showing signs of a lot of use.



Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Cruising With Safari Windows. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postcruising-with-safari-windows-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postcruising-with-safari-windows-air-tech Mon, 19 Aug 2019 00:00:00 GMT Cruising with Safari Windows 

In this article I'm going to be talking to you people who have safari  windows. Are they cool? Hell yes they're cool. Want to know what’s not cool? When you crack your glass. So let’s make sure that doesn’t happen.

 

So you bought and installed your safari windows, congrats! Now it’s time to be cool and show off to your buddies. You open them and drive down the driveway. “Aw man this is the shit. So cool.” You get on the highway and up to speed and you now see a crack going from one side to the other, right through the middle of the windshield. Congrats! You just lost your cool factor. What the hell? 

 

You’re probably thinking “Man I just paid good money for these and now I have to pay to get the glass replaced”. So before that happens to you, here is what’s going on and how to prevent it. The wind is pushing against the bottom of the frame. The window doesn’t close down because of the stays (slides). The pressure of the wind is increasing with your speed. The frame is going to flex where the two halfs join together. The glass will now flex at that joint and that is where the crack starts. 

We’ve heard, “Well then the manufacturer should make it a one piece frame.” Well, if it’s one piece how are they going to get the frame around the glass. Sorry but it has to be two pieces. Well if I can’t open them without cracking them what the hell good are they? Here is the secret to safaris. If you are under lets say 15mph you can open them and shouldn’t have any problems. If you’re getting up to speeds over that then you need to bring down the amount of uneven pressure on the glass. 

Here is what I do- I have the window open Then I close the latches. Next I loosen up the wing bolts on the stays (slides) and with my hand on the glass let the window close. Now the latches will hit the rubber keeping the window open about an inch. I leave the wing bolts loose. Now the wind pressure is on the bottom of the frame and transfers the load to the latches. No load is on the stays as they are loose. This way there is no stress on the glass. I still get some wind through the vehicle and I won’t get a ticket either for an open windshield. You can barely tell its open. When I slow back down, I just take my hand and open the window and tighten the wing bolts. Want to get more air flow through the vehicle? Make sure you have one of your quarter windows open or the rear open to get the air moving.

Now you can go back to looking cool and say no to crack, kids.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Remote Oil Cooler Placement. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postremote-oil-cooler-placement-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postremote-oil-cooler-placement-air-tech Thu, 08 Aug 2019 00:00:00 GMT Remote Oil Cooler Placement

In this article I want to talk about where to place a remote oil cooler. If you’re not running one and never intend to, well this article is not for you. Here in Redding, CA  you should have one. It’s damn hot here in the summertime. Keep in mind here that I run a “full flow” system which also retains the stock oil cooler. I have written an article on stock oil coolers so I will refer you back to that on which stock oil cooler to run. 

Let’s first talk about the remote coolers themselves. There is the old tube type. The way they work is oil travels in the tube and the aluminum fins transfer the heat from the tube to the air. These work but not my favorite. For one, the fins are easily bent, plus the heat transfer from the tube to the fin is not the greatest compared to a mesa style cooler. Again, they work but there are better coolers out there. The Mesa style cooler for me works the best, so in this article I will be talking about them.  It is made up of plates where the plates are fin like. The oil travels through the fin (plate) in a criss cross pattern. This makes for better transfer of the heat to the air. Also being that the fins (plates) have a criss cross pattern they are way stronger and will not bend easily. Oh you can bend them but it takes some effort. As a demonstration I put them on the floor and stand on them. Try that with a tube style. So this remote cooler style is the one that I like. The next thing is they come in different sizes. They are sized by the number of plates. The most common are: 24, 48, 72, and 96 plate. So what should I use? This is my general rule and later I will explain why. On a bug, baja bug, ghia, thing, I use the 72 plate. On a bus I use a 96 plate. Well what about the 24 or 48? I will use them if placement doesn’t allow a 72 or 96 and I will use two of them. 

Now let’s talk about placement. A lot of these so called remote oil cooler kits tell you to mount them in front of the fan intake. In other words on the back of the fan shroud in front of the fan. Really? What the hell? The whole idea of a remote oil cooler is to get the heat off the cylinders. By mounting it there your just sucking in hot air now and what? Blowing it on top of your cylinders. Who in the hell writes these instructions? That’s like wiping before you poop. Defeats the purpose. In my way of thinking don’t we want to get the heat away from the motor? I put cooler and the filter away from the engine compartment, get the heat away from the fan.

Bugs, Ghia, Thing, Type 3 I hang a 72 plate cooler above the transmission. The 72 plate cooler is the right size for where I put them and you can still get to everything like the clutch cable and throttle cable. What I end up doing to using 90 degree fittings and face the fitting ports to the left. That way the 90 degree fittings now are facing the rear. The rear one being turned 45 degrees down and the forward one being inline with the cooler. The next trick is where and how. I use muffler clamp bolts as they seem to be the right length. I do not want to mount the cooler flush. I want air to be able to travel through it. I try and leave at least a 1” gap between the cooler and the deck, in other words I hang it from the deck.

.

Now bolting it. Put the head of the bolt down through the deck (area behind the rear seat) then you can do two different things here. One is to make a 1” splacer out of some tubing and slide the spacer on the bolt from underneath then the flange of the cooler, then a nylock nut. The other way is to thread a regular nut onto the bolt then the cooler flange and then a nylock nut and sandwich the cooler flange between the two nuts. When it comes to routing the lines, I use the forward fitting as my in and the rear fitting as my return or out. On most Baja bugs this placement works well too. If you play in a lot of mud though you will want to hose it off once in awhile. If you have lots of cage under this area you can see if you place two 48 plate coolers up in there. One on each side of the deck or whatever fits and just run the “out” of one cooler to the “in” of the other. 

On buses, I use the 96 plate cooler if my bus doesn’t have the belly pans. What are belly pans? If your bus has a sunroof or double doors they came with belly pans that inclose the frame in the center of the bus. We will talk about both but for right now let’s talk about the buses without those pans. If you look under your bus from the frame to the outer rocker in front of the driver side rear tire you will see cross members that hold up the floor. We are looking for the members that look like an “I” beam. We want to put the cooler in between two rear ones. Now we will be drilling a hole in the lip of the “I” beam and we have to be dead on as there is not much of a lip there. I use 6mm bolts here. Two short ones as I mount the front of the cooler flush (forward “I” beam) and the rear I use longer bolts in order to use a 1” spacer between the cooler flange and “I” beam. I face both fitting towards the rear tire. 

I put my hoses on the inside of the frame and follow the frame back to the motor. Strapping the hoses apart and to the frame. Why do I not strap the hoses together? Well I don’t want the hot hose heating up the return hose. So separate them. Doesn’t have to be much but apart does the trick. 

 

 

Buses with the belly pans are a little tricky. On early buses up to 1967 I have welded tabs to the transmission forks in front of the hanger. Then bolted the 96 plate cooler to that with the fitting facing the drivers side. It gets lots of air there but routing the hoses is not clean and can be a bitch. 

 

On buses 68 and later I use two 72 plate coolers and mount them between the torrion housing and the body with the fitting facing the rear of the bus. It requires making tabs and welding them on. Again a bitch, but works well. 

 

On sand rails or tube cars just mount the cooler away from the motor. One customer here spent a lot of time making brackets to put a 96 plate cooler on and he put it right in front of the fan. Why? Because that’s what the instructions told him to do. The reason he was here, is to get his motor rebuilt.  I wouldn’t give it back until he moved it. Bottom line, put it away from the fan. If you put it up in the air flow you can use a smaller plate cooler, than if you put it somewhere that doesn’t get as much air. 

All this talk about remote oil coolers. Do you need one? I don’t know. You will have to put an oil temp gauge on your motor to see. Do I need a fan on the cooler? It doesn’t hurt to have one that’s for sure, but when the cooler is above the trans things get tight for a fan. On everything but a 72 and later bus I usually don’t run one. Stay cool Gang.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Air Cleaners. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postair-cleaners-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postair-cleaners-air-tech Mon, 29 Jul 2019 00:00:00 GMT In this article I would like to talk about air cleaners. There are a lot of them out there, so how do you know which ones you should be using? First and foremost, what are you doing with the car? Is this a street car that never sees the dirt? Is this a dirt car? Sand car? Maybe a drag car? This will determine what you should run for air cleaners or if you should run any at all.

Let's start with the street cars. What do you have for a carb or carbs? If you have a stock carb then I have to say it’s hard to beat the factory air cleaner. Yes, it’s big and bulky and the oil bath ones are messy, but they work well. Don’t have one and can’t find a good used one? Then I would find one that has a rubber neck so it makes a good seal on the carb neck. A lot of the aftermarket air cleaners have a metal bottom with slots to expand over the carb. I find they suck dirt around this area and are pretty much junk. That’s all there was for years, but now some companies are making ones with the rubber neck. 

If you have dual carbs, like IDFs, there is no choice but to use a metal base air cleaner. A lot of times the kits come with really thin tinny bases and tops. I usually throw the bases away and get some thicker aluminum ones. That way I have a good seal to the base and carb. One note here on IDFs is that the kits come with velocity stacks. I don’t run them when running a 3 ½ inch tall air cleaner. I have found that IDFs like 4 inches of “free air” above the auxiliary vent. That’s the tube in the middle of the throat. If you put the stack on and then the air cleaner you have about a ½ inch. If you have a 6 inch tall element go ahead and run the stacks. 

Now let's talk about the breather tube that comes from the oil filler. On stock air cleaners the breather hose comes into the air cleaner housing  before the filtering. In other words, that nasty oil soaked air gets filtered out to just air. On the aftermarket air cleaners it comes into the air cleaner after the element. So what you’re doing is sucking oily air down your carb. Does it work? Sure, but not my favorite thing ever. I see a lot of cars with that tube just shoved down to the ground. Well that kind of works, but that tube will suck dirt. That’s why the factory cleaner has a boot with a slot cut into it on the factory metal breather tube. It works like a valve. When there is pressure, the slot lets out the pressure, when it’s sucking, the slot closes up. What I do here is put a little filter on the end of the hose. I don’t run it into the air cleaner. Whatever you do, don’t just plug the hose. The engine case has to breathe. If it can't then it will blow oil out of everywhere it can, like the front pulley. 

Now let’s talk about dirt or sand cars. I had a customer that we built a sand rail motor for. I told him that his air cleaners where junk and wouldn’t keep the sand out. He decided to run them anyway. He took the fresh motor to the dunes and the next Monday was at my shop with his motor complaining that it had no compression. I already knew what had happened but kept my mouth shut. I tore the motor apart with him standing next to me, telling me I was going to pay to fix it. I took the air cleaner top off and you could just see the sand sitting on top of the carbs. I pointed that out, but still kept my mouth shut. Then I took off the carbs and you could see sand in the intake ports. Then I took the head off and the top of the cylinder had a big ridge in it and the area that the rings rode in was completely polished. His response was “What causes that?” I asked him what do you have when you glue sand to a piece of paper? Answer, sand paper. Take that sandpaper and go up and down the cylinder a million times. What the hell do you expect? With your wonderful air cleaners, you sanded the hell out of the cylinders. The next statement from me was “I told you not to run these filters and no I’m not paying to replace parts you destroyed with your air cleaners”. He saw my point, so I rebuilt the motor again and put good air cleaners on it.  Moral of the story is that it doesn’t take long to sand out your motor, so do all you can to keep it out. If you’re running a stock carb they make a good hooded air cleaner. The only mod I do is use a rubber washer under the wing nut and I drill the stud above the wing nut and use a safety pin through the hole. This makes sure the wing nut doesn’t fall off. On dual carbs, again use good thick bases. The other trick here on a stock carb or dual carbs is to put grease on the top and bottom of the element to make sure you get an airtight seal. Also, if you can get ones that fit use outerwears. On my off road car with dual carbs I use the outerwears and I also built a hood to go over the air cleaner. If you’re going to make hoods, make sure you make them larger than the air cleaner itself so the air can get to the element. 

What about drag cars? Well this is a mixed question. When motors are up there in RPMs they require a lot of air, so most guys don’t run an air cleaner. Keep in mind, these motors come apart all the time and cylinders are replaced way more often than a street car. So my suggestion is, if you are not going all out, run air cleaners if you can. It will just save you money in the long run. If you’re not going to, I get it. Just don’t complain that your going through cylinders. It’s just part of the deal at that point. 

In conclusion, if you’re running a stock carb use a stock air cleaner or at least a rubber neck aftermarket air cleaner. If you’re dual carb, make sure you get a good air cleaner and not the thin tin one.  If your playing off road at all do what you can to keep the dirt out of the intake. If you’re a drag car, well, you know the deal.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Setting The End Play. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postsetting-the-end-play-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postsetting-the-end-play-air-tech Wed, 29 May 2019 00:00:00 GMT In this article I will be talking about setting end play with the three shims behind the flywheel. I cannot stress how important this is and what I have learned with the new main bearings we are getting these days. So first things first, you will need a flywheel lock (Please don’t use a big screwdriver against one of the bottom main studs), a 36mm socket, a torque wrench that will go to 250ft lbs, micrometer or calipers for measuring the shims, and a dial indicator. You can buy a cheap one at harbor freight if you don’t have one. Parts you will need include a flywheel seal, flywheel o-ring or gasket depending on what engine you are working on, and a some different thickness flywheel shims. Let’s get started.

Let’s say we are checking a motor that already has some miles on it. If the motor is in the car, grab the front pulley and push and pull it with your hands. If you can see it move, then you will need to pull the motor and fix the endplay. The movement is supposed to be .003 to .005. That’s really not enough to see. You might be able to feel it but not see it. So go ahead and pull the motor out and get the clutch off. Before you take the gland bolt off take your magnetic base dial indicator and attach the base to the flywheel where the clutch rode. Position the arm so that the dial stem is hitting the case. Make sure you have travel on the indicator stem. Grab the flywheel and push it in. Set your dial to “0”. Now with your two large screwdrivers, gently pry the flywheel out. Look at your indicator. If it is over .005 you need to reset. I’m sure it will be because this is why we are taking the motor out in the first place. Whatever the measurement, is write it down somewhere.


Now take off the gland bolt. This is where you need the 36mm socket and flywheel lock. You can take the gland bolt off with an impact gun, but please don’t put it on with a gun. With two large screwdrivers pry the flywheel off. If you work the screw drivers side to side it should come right off. If you have a buddy handy have them catch the flywheel as you pry it off. Now, using one large screwdriver, pry the flywheel seal out. Save it, we will use it to install the new seal if you don’t have the correct flywheel seal installer. Pull out the three shims and set them on the bench.


Now the biggy. Grab your buddy so they can give you a hand. They will need both hands so they will have to put down the beer. What I want you to do is place both thumbs on the rear main bearing. Have your buddy push and pull the front crank pulley. Can you feel the rear main bearing moving? Hell can you see it moving? If it is, you’re so done. This motor needs to come apart and get that fixed. Yeah, I know, that’s not what you wanted to hear so grab another six pack and some tissues for your tears. There is no magic fix here, it has to come apart.

Let’s say it’s not moving. Grab your shims that you took out. Wipe the oil off of them and see if they are cupped. Flex them in your hands, and if they make a popping sound yeah they are cupped and need to be tossed in the neighbors yard. You will want to start with three new or non cupped shims that measure out .010 each.


If they are not cupped, then measure each one with your mic or calipers. Now comes the math so I'm hoping by now the majority of that six pack is still left unopened. Take the number you wrote down earlier then subtract the total of the three shims you took out. Ex: the number was .039 and you had .030 in total with the three shims. That means you had .009 endplay. We need to take up at least .004. That means you will have to come up with a shim combo that equals .034 to .036. That will give us the .003 to .005 endplay that we need. Once you think you have it put them over the crank.


If your flywheel is a non o-ring then install a new gasket over the dowel pins. If you have an o-ring flywheel do not use the gasket. Gaskets come in metal or paper. I prefer the paper but when doing your math you might have to use the metal to get the math to come out right. I would start with the paper gasket. Again only use the gasket with non o-ring flywheels. Install the flywheel and run the gland bolt down by hand. Once snug turn the motor over by hand. Does it move? If yes then install the flywheel lock and torque the bolt to 217 to 250 ft lbs. Take the lock off and put your dial indicator back on and check and see what you have. If the motor doesn’t turn you have one of few problems. One, the bearing was moving in the case and you didn’t catch it. The main bearings that are in it are not chamfered enough and the crank is bottoming out in the chaffer. Or, you had too many beers and did your math wrong. If you’re correct and the endplay is correct then remove the flywheel again and we will start to install the seal and o-ring (if your flywheel takes one). If it didn’t come out right, then play with your shims until it’s right.  


Now we need to put the flywheel on with the o-ring if your using an o-ring flywheel. If you look inside your flywheel and see a groove with a black o-ring then you have an o-ring flywheel. If you just see a step then that flywheel doesn’t take an o-ring. Use a small screwdriver and pull the old o-ring out. Clean the groove well and with your fingers smear some light oil on the new o-ring and install in the groove. Now install the flywheel one more time without the flywheel seal. Torque it down and then pull it off again. What we are doing is seeing if the o-ring gets pinched between the two mating surfaces. If you see it did then take a razor blade and trim off the part that got pinched. Once you have checked that then your good to go on installing the seal. If you have a seal installer great. If not, then with a hammer gently install the seal until it's flush with the case. Now take the old seal and turn it upside down and place it against the new seal. Hammer against the old seal which will drive the new seal deeper into the case until it stops. You cannot leave it flush with the case or it will leak. Once done, use a little oil or white grease on the surface that the seal rides on, on the flywheel. Place the flywheel over the dowel pins. With a clean gland bolt use a little blue locktite on the threads. Install the bolt and torque it down to 217 to 250 ft lbs. That’s it done.


Notes here: I set most of my street engines to .004 to .005. On drag car motors I am setting the endplay to .007 to .010. What I have found is the new main bearing material expands more then the old bavet bearing and they expand more.  .005 I have found is too tight for hotrods and the rear main bearing will grab the flywheel.


I have also found that torquing the bolt over 250 can crack or roll the threads over on the bolt. Not good. That is why we torque the bolt and not use an impact. It really sucks when a flywheel comes loose. Not only do you have to replace the flywheel but you will also be replacing the crank. If you don’t have a way to torque it find a way. Rent a tool, borrow a tool, but a tool. Don’t use an impact.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Fuel Lines. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postfuel-lines https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postfuel-lines Wed, 27 Feb 2019 00:00:00 GMT Fuel Lines

This month’s article is not politically correct, reader be warned.  

In the hot ass town of Redding, Taxafornia (Did I say that?), I see more engine fires caused by American fuel line than any other reason. Why’s that? first of all, it’s the wrong size. German hose is 5mm or 7mm. American fuel line is ¼ or 5/16. Granted, it’s easy to put on. So I see guys put it on and crank down a hose clamp. Does that work? Kind of, but let it get hot then see if you can pull in off. More than likely, you can with ease. Secondly, if you look at the german line it has a braided cloth on the outside. American line has a braid but it's in the middle of the hose. “So what?” you ask. When rubber gets hot, it expands. If the braid is on the outside and the rubber expands what direction does it expand. Inward is the answer. On the American hose it expands outward. Not so good. When you go to pull off American line it comes off easy  because it’s the wrong size to begin with and because it doesn’t have that braid on the outside. German line is a pain to get off. Most of the time you have to cut it off. Why’s that? Ever played with chinese finger cuffs when you were a kid? That braid when you pull on it gets tighter. So if your going to remove the hose for any reason first try and spin it then using a screwdriver try and push the hose off instead of pulling.

Installing german hose is not the easiest. If you do it dry you will fight it. The trick here is put a drop of oil in the end of the hose. It will slide right on. Those of you who run IDF carbs have a problem in that the carbs take 7mm line and the fuel pump and metal line is 5mm. Don’t just tighten the hose clamp on the smaller fitting with the big line. I use the plastic fuel filters that have a step on them.

 From the pump I use 5mm line and push it onto the first step of the filter. Then I use the 7mm line on the out of the filter and push it up to the second step. I run my 7mm line from the filter to the backside of the fan shroud on the drivers side to the “T”, then a short line to the drivers side carb and a long line on the passenger side. If you are running dual carbs you do not have to have equal length fuel line to each carb. The carb needle and seats work independently of each other so they don’t care. When the system is dry (first time starting) yes the driver's side gets fuel first. This doesn’t really matter because once the system is wet the needle and seat determines when to let fuel in. It doesn’t care what the other carb is doing.

Now let’s talk about fuel. Those of you who are my age or older will remember the days when gas was red. Yeah, the good ole days. Now we have fuel that looks like piss and we pay a lot more for it. The problem is the ethanol in it. That in itself is not a huge issue, but the problem is if the lines dry out from not driving or running the motor the ethanol will start eating anything that’s rubber. Think about that. Fuel pumps have a rubber diaphragms, carbs have a rubber diaphragm for the accelerator pump, and of course the fuel line. I have seen fuel lines looking more like drip irrigation after sitting dry. Not good on a hot motor.

Some American fuel lines are made with a rubber that the alcohol won't eat. That’s fine and dandy, but the fuel line is still the wrong size. So now what? If I know the car is going to sit, I mix marvel mystery oil in my gas. The longer it’s going to sit the more I pour in. If I know the motor is going to sit over a year then I run straight marvel until the motor starts smoking from it. Then in ten years I can put fresh gas in it, start it, and kill millions of mosquitos from the smoke until it clears up and all my rubber parts are still good, even the fuel lines.

At the time of this writing this article I am doing an experiment with a new hose. We had been using the brand Continental. Yes it fits, but it does get eaten by ethanol. Please keep in mind only when it drys out does the gas eat the rubber. If it stays wet then no problems. So back to the experiment. I found a german manufacturer that has the correct size braided hose, both 7mm and 5mm, that they say won’t get eaten by etholone. Its cost twice as much as the Continental brand, but if I only have to buy it once and it’s safter I don’t care.  I don’t have the results yet so I can’t say either way. The only way to test it is soak it in piss, I mean gas, then let it dry out for awhile and see if we still get drip irrigation. I should have some results in the coming months and if it does work then I will be switching to it and only carrying that brand.

So there you have it. By the way, most carb kits come with American style fuel line. I usually give it to my V8 friends or throw it in the neighbors yard. That guy really need to clean his yard.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Swing Time. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postswing-time-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postswing-time-air-tech Fri, 30 Nov 2018 00:00:00 GMT Swing time.

 

In this article we will be talking about how to remove and install swing axle tubes and axles. You IRS, (independent rear suspension) guys can skip this one or just read on for the knowledge.

 

I'm going to assume you know how to get the transmission out. Once out, it's really nice to have an engine stand to work with. You don’t have to, but I’m telling you it's worth it. You’ll see why later. Start by mounting your transmission in your stand so that the axles are left to right. Have at least two or three oil drain pans. Drain the oil out of the center section. You will need a 17mm allen. An oak tree mechanic trick is if you don’t have one use a 17mm headed bolt and a pair of vise grips. Not recommend but in a pinch that does work. If you are working on a bus with reduction boxes pull the drain plugs out of the reduction boxes and let drain.

 

Non reduction box tear down.

If you have drum still on it then get out the impact wrench and a 36mm socket and remove the axle nut. If the impact won’t take it off you can buy a pork chop tool.


The way you use this tool is put it over the nut and use a BFH (big ***** hammer) on it. If the drum doesn’t slide off you might have to back off the brake shoes. Once the drum is off, remove the four bolts that hold on the bearing cap. Remove the bearing cap and the backing plate. Have your drain pan under this area as it’s going leak. Now remove the large spacer that’s up against the bearing. You will also see a small o-ring and a shim (looks like a washer) up against the bearing. By removing them it will make your life easier to pull the tubes off. At this point we will move into the center section area. You will see 6 nuts holding a retainer of the axle tube onto the side plate. Remove all 6 nuts and the wave washer that are under them. To remove the tube I use a puller. It threads into two of the four bearing bolt holes then presses down on the axle. If you can rig something up to do that, great, if not there is the oak tree mechanic way. Use a dead blow hammer (not a steel hammer), hold the axle tube out straight and hit the back side of the casting where the spring plate mounted. If you hit just under where the shock mount is then you have less of a chance to bend the casting. Once the tube is off take a piece of pipe that slides down the axle tube and knock out the bearing and with that will come out the small spacer. With your fingers just unsnap the plastic flower looking piece that is on the side plate that the axle tube pivoted on.  

Now for the axle. You will need a large pair of circlip pliers. You can try needle nose pliers, but I hope there not your favorite ones because you will break them. Just go get a big set of the correct pliers. Remove the circlip and under that is a thrust washer. Take that out. Now grab the axle and pull it out. Now, with your fingers, remove the two fulcrum plates. You can try and take out the side gear at this point but most of the time it won’t come out due to a ridge that has mushroomed out from the circlip. At some point you will want to grind or file  that ridge out so you can get the side gear out. Now that you have made a mess on the floor by kicking the oil pan, you can do the same thing on the other side.

 

Reduction box tear down

If you have reduction boxes this process takes a lot longer. Start with the drum. Get out your impact and use either a 36mm socket or a 46mm socket. If the impact won’t take it off, you can buy the pork chop tool pictured and described above. Once the drum is off, remove the bolt that holds the wheel cylinder on. There will be two nuts under the brake adjusting stars, remove those. Now remove the four bolts that hold on the bearing cap. Remove the bearing cap and the backing plate. You should have your drain pan under this area already from draining the box. Now remove the large spacer that’s up against the bearing if it did not come out with the cap. You will also see a small o-ring and a shim (looks like a washer) on the 36mm nut boxes up against the bearing. Remove all the bolts that hold the reduction box together. The boxes are pinned together so you will need a hammer and a punch. You can drive off the outer half by using your punch in the area of the drain and fill plugs. Once you get it started to come apart you can use some pry bars and gently pry the outer half off. Be careful not to gouge the sealing surface of the box. Once the outer half is off you will see a snap ring on the upper axle that holds the upper outer bearing on. Use your snap ring pliers to remove that snap ring. With two large screwdrivers, pry under the upper gear. The gear and bearing will come off. If you have early (36mm) boxes you can now just pull on the lower stub axle. If you have the late boxes (46mm) you will need to remove the soft plug on the back side of the box. You do not have to remove the lower axle to get the tube off. If you want to get that stub out then what I do is tack weld a nut on the soft plug and use a slide hammer to pull it out. Then I grind off the tack weld and I can reuse the plug. You will find a crimp nut on the back side which takes a 41mm socket. .

At this point we will move into the center section area. You will see 6 nuts holding a retainer of the axle tube onto the side plate. Remove all 6 nuts and the wave washers that are under them. To remove the tube, use your dead blow hammer and hold the axle out straight and hit the back side of the reduction box, driving the tube off the axle. With your fingers, unsnap the plastic flower looking piece that is on the side plate that the axle tube pivoted on.  

Now for the axle. You will need a large pair of circlip pliers. You can try needle nose pliers, but I hope they’re not your favorite ones because you will break them. Just go get a big set of the correct pliers. Remove the circlip and the thrust washer that’s under it. Now grab the axle and pull it out. With your fingers, remove the two fulcrum plates. You can try and take out the side gear at this point but most of the time it won’t come out due to a ridge that has mushroomed out from the circlip. At some point you will want to grind or file that ridge out so you can get the side gear out. Repeat all this on the other side.

 

Now, clean up the floor because I know you made a mess and the wife is complaining about the smell of old 90w oil all over everything. Once you have made the wife happy we can start by putting this back together. Remember, happy wife happy life.

First, clean all the parts you have taken off. Inspect axles, especially the spade ends. Scratches are not that big of a deal, but the spade end needs to be flat from one end to the other. Everything but a bus usually doesn’t have any problems here. Clean your axle tube and remove the boots. Inspect all your bearings. Inspect your side gear for cracks. Take a close look at the fulcrum plates. Clean the bearing cap and install new seals in them. Lay things out so this will be easier to put together and you’re not searching for parts. By now you should have gone to the parts store and picked up a trans gasket set, two axle seal kits, two reduction box gaskets for your year boxes if you’re working on reduction boxes, oil and some sealer. One more suggestion here that you might want to think about are axle tube retainer plates. I will explain more later. So read on to see if you want to buy these.

 

Now, turn your trans so one of the side cover is straight up. We will be building this side all the way out before starting on the other side. We’re going to shim the axle tube here first. What? Shim? What the hell? I don’t see any stinking shims. Look in your gasket kit, there are eight or so gaskets for the axle tube. Yeah those are the shims. Before we get started I want you to grab your axle tube and put it on the bench with the casting down the tube up. Now pick up the retainer. That is the part that holds the tube to the side plate. Put a straight edge between the bolt holes. Do you see a gap? I bet you do. 90% of them do. This is why they leak. The metal is thin and it pulls up around the bolt holes. You can try and make them flat again, lord knows I’ve tried, or you can buy the axle tube retainer plate kit. What it is is thick plates that fit on the outside and when you bolt them down, flatten out the thin retainer plate and keep that plate from warping. To install these you will have to replace the six studs on each side with longer ones that come in the kit. This is up to you. I have had great luck with these kits and it really cuts down on the leaking issues. Ok back to the shimming. Place your clean plastic flower onto the side plate and snap it in. Now take three gaskets; that’s right three, and place them over the studs. Put your axle tub on with the washers and the nuts. Torque the nuts to 15ft lbs. Now grab ahold of the tube and rotate it around. You should have a slight drag on it. If you pull on the tube and it tries to move the trans is too tight and you will need to add a gasket. If it’s loose try and pull up on the tube, if you feel any movement at all up then take a gasket out and try again. You might have to reinstall the tube a few times to get this right. Again you only want a slight drag on it. Once you have determined the correct amount of gaskets (shims) then take it apart and set the gaskets off to the side knowing that, that is what we are going to use when putting it together for the final time. Remove the flower again.

 

Now clear a spot on the bench and grab your axle, fulcrum plates and side gear. Slide the fulcrums into the side gear dry. They are going to want to fall down. Not to worry, you can stick your finger in the hole of the back side and spread them out where they’re supposed to be as you put the axle spade end in. While holding it up, grab your feeler gauges and slide a gauge in between the spade end and the fulcrum plate. If the clearance here is between .001 and .010 you are good to go. If not start trying different fulcrum plates. Once you are good to go, take it apart and use white grease on the back sides fulcrums plates. Then grease the spade end of the axle and put it back together. I use some white grease on the outside of the side gear and get it ready to install in the diff. Now walk over to the trans and make sure the two spider gears are pushed out to the sides.  Put the side gear with the axle into that side of the diff. You kind of have to do this in one motion pushing down. Rotate the axle to mesh the gears of the side gear to the spider gears. Once meshed you should see the correct distance to the thrust washer and snap ring.

Look down at the fulcrum plates and make sure one of them did not slip behind the spade end. At this point you can let go the axle and gravity will keep the fulcrum plates in place. Whatever you do, do not pull up on the axle. If you do, you will need to take everything back out and reset the fulcrum plates. This is why an engine stand is the way to go. Grab your snap ring and thrust washer. I either use white grease on the thrust washer or some oil. With the large snap ring pliers you bought, reinstall the snap ring making sure it's all the way in the groove. Next, grab your plastic flower and snap it into place, then use sealer. I use a product called Gasgacinch, and coat the gaskets (shims) and install onto to the side plate. Then I smear a light coat of oil on the bell of the axle tube. This prevents galling of the tube retainer. Put your tube over the axle and line up the retainer on the studs. Put your retainer plates on if you’re going to use them and install your washers then your nuts and torque to 15ft lbs.

 

Now, let's work our way out to the end before doing the other side. This will prevent the fulcrums from slipping behind the axle. Put the small spacer over the axle with the bevel towards the trans and flat side towards the bearing. Then install the bearing. The bearing is a tight fit and will need to be driven in place if you have non reduction boxes. If this is non reduction box then install you backing plate and bearing cap. I have written an article already on how you install those seals so I will refer you back to that. Install the cap and torque the cap. Now, you’re ready to do the other side.

 

On reduction boxes there is a lot more to do. So here you go. Put your tube over the axle like I explained earlier. Now the bearing and spacer are already in the tube unless you took out the lower axle. Then install your upper gear and upper outer bearing. Ok did that, how do I get the clip back on the upper axle? It’s not up far enough out of the bearing to get the clip back on. Look in the end of the axle, you will see that it’s threaded. I use a large spacer (swing axle outer spacer), thick flat washer (bus front end washer) and a 10mm bolt and rig up a puller to pull the axle through the bearing. By doing this you can get the clip back on.  From here you can finish putting the box back together or now go to the other side.

 

That’s about it. If you used the retainer kit you are less likely by far to have a leak. Some other notes here: Once you are done tighten your axle nuts to 250flbs don’t install the cotter pins yet. Drive the car around the block. Retighten the nut. If it moved then drive it around the block again and torque again. Do this until the nut stops moving. Then look and see if the hole lines up to put the cotter pin in. If it does bingo. If it doesn’t tighten the nut so it does. Never ever back the nut off to line up the hole. I don’t care if you used an impact, just do it. I sell more brake drums because of stripped splines then I do because they are worn out diameter wise. Regarding axle boots, I install them on the trans before I put the trans back in. If you are using a boot that bolts together don’t put the seam straight up. Point it at a 45 degree angle up. This keeps the seam of the boot from getting worked as the tube goes up and down ripping the boot. Put the big clamp on and tighten it. Leave the small clamp loose until you have the trans in the car. Then tighten it after you have the tube bolted to the spring plate. That way when you rotate the tube to fit, you won’t be wrapping up the boot. With that said, whenever I have axle tubes off I use the seamless boots. Installing them is for another article. Last thing here, don’t forget to fill the trans and reduction boxes if you have them.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[What You Need To Know About Mid-Mounts. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postwhat-you-need-to-know-about-mid-mounts-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postwhat-you-need-to-know-about-mid-mounts-air-tech Wed, 26 Sep 2018 00:00:00 GMT What is a mid mount, and do you need one? Read this first and then decide if you need one. If you own a 1968 or later bus you can stop reading as there is no way to put a mid mount on the later buses. Or you can read on and impress your friends.

 

What is a mid mount? It is an aftermarket mount for the transmission that usually bolts to the cluster housing on the transmission then is attached to the transmission forks. It provides a stronger front mount in a sense. There are two types and tons of different styles. The style isn’t as important as the type. There are solid ones that usually weld in to the forks and rubber ones that pretty much bolt in. So which one do you need? That depends on what you’re doing. If your car is bone stock you really don’t need one at all. If you have jumped up the horsepower and have had mount failure then you should get one. If this is a street car, either daily driver or even a Friday Saturday nite car then I would get the rubber one. If you have an off road car or a mild drag car then get the solid one. I don’t suggest the solid one on the daily driver or the Friday/Saturday night car because the minute you go solid things start to vibrate off the car.

 

Why do I need one when I make more power? In as simple of a way I can explain, here is what is going on- When you let out the clutch at a dead stop the pinion in the trans is trying to ride up the ring gear (unless you have a reduction box transmission). This in turn tries to raise the front of the transmission. It puts a lot of stress on the front mount. If it holds then the back of the car squats and the front of the car raises up. Enough horsepower and you do a wheelie. So think about the wheelie for a minute. The reason you’re doing one is the pinion is crawling up the ring gear. Wow, you’re putting the weight of the car and you on the front transmission mount and pinion. Damn. So having a mid mount makes that front mount area a lot stronger. Keep in mind here that is all it does. It just strengthens up the front mount. It will not do anything for fork flex. Fork flex is what causes wheel hop. Wheel hop is what breaks parts.

 

There are a ton of rubber mount options out there. The one I have used the most on bugs, ghias, and things is more of a strap. When these straps came out 30 years ago they fit and were a great thing. They have since been copied so many times that the hardware that comes in the kit no longer fits right out of the box. There are different styles that fit better, but don’t really do the job, so in those cases you’re pretty much putting them on for looks.

 

If you’re cursing and screaming while putting this on you’re doing it right. How do you make it work? First thing- see the inner tab that faces the trans? Yeah they give you a bolt that is way too long. If you put it in you will jack a hole right into your transmission. So take the bolt and cut the head off so you have a stud. Then weld the stud into that tab. You will have to find a nut that fits that thread. Next take two more of the bolts they give you and cut them in half. Again, they are too long and will run right into your brake line, putting a hole in them. Now loosen up your front trans mount. You don’t have to remove it, just loosen it. Place the upper part of the strap around the cluster housing part of the trans. Make sure you snake it around your clutch cable and throttle cable. Placement is key. It should fit perfect with the seam of the cluster housing. One way to tell is one side of the strap will fit flush with the stud bosses that are part of the cluster housing. It’s a tight fit to say the least. Now that that’s in place, start to try and fit the bottom part. One hole will go onto the stud you made. The rest fits horribly. So take a jack and make it fit by pushing up on it. If the inner hole doesn’t line up don’t be surprised. You might have to file out the hole. Once you get the bolt to fit, semi tighten it along with the nut on the stud. You now have push out the wings of the lower part of the strap. Get a “C” clamp and make it come up flush with fork flange. Once you have that, drill the hole in your fork flange. Be careful, if you push too hard on the drill you will drill a hole in your e-brake cable or brake line. Now install the little square tab with the notch down and towards the fork. The notch is to clear the double wall on the fork flange. You might have to grind down those blocks to clear your e-brake cables. Once you thread in the bolts you cut down, make sure they don’t stick up too far to hit anything. That’s it. Yes, it is a super pain to put on, but it is rubber and works well. I wish the people who made this stuff tried to put it on themselves, maybe then it would fit properly right out of the box.

 

If you have an early bus, we make a killer rubber midmount that bolts right in and comes with clear instructions.

 

https://www.wolfgangint.com/store/product/type-2-transaxle-stabilizer-mid-mount/

 

It works on both reduction and non-reduction boxes. Busses without reduction boxes should have this. The fork flex is brutal when the pinion tries to climb the rear gear and let’s face it, a bus weighs a lot more than a bug, ghia, or thing.

You’ll remove the four lower studs of the cluster housing by double nutting them or using vise grips. Then install the smaller of the two steel plates. Clean up the grease from inside the transmission support fork. While you’re cleaning you will see a hole that is in it. Not sure what the factory had in that hole but hey, it’s there. Now grab one of the rubber mounts. The top is the part without a flange on it. Look carefully it has an angle to it. Match the angle to the angle of the fork and put it up so that the stud goes through that hole you were looking at. Run a nut and washer down on the stud. Now put the cross plate over the rubber mount and run the washer and nut up, so the the two holes in the plate match up. I leave things loose until I get these short bolts in. Once you have those short bolts in, tighten everything up. That’s it. Easy.

 

The other type of mid mount is a solid one. This should only be used on race cars, sand rails, or serious dirt cars.

 

To install, pull the upper four studs out of the cluster housing. Install the mount with longer bolts or longer studs and nuts. Once that is tight, break out the welder and weld the ends to the transmission fork. Now how do I get the trans out if I need to? Well you undo the cluster housing bolts that you put in and slide the trans out.

 

So there you have it. Next time you dump the clutch, think about what’s happening from what I said earlier.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Converting from 6V to 12V. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postconverting-from-6v-to-12v-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postconverting-from-6v-to-12v-air-tech Fri, 31 Aug 2018 00:00:00 GMT Converting 6 volts to 12 volts.

 

In this article I’m going to talk about what it takes to convert your car from the old 6 volts to 12 volts. First thing to decide is if you even want to convert? There are major pluses to the 12 volt, but if you’re going for that all stock vibe then I would leave it 6 volts. I own and have driven the 6 volt cars and there is a certain “feel” you get. Example; one of my cars used to be a 1960 KG. All OE. In the winter time I would leave work and it was dark outside so I turn on the headlights. You find when you rev up the motor the lights get brighter. It’s winter so of course it’s raining outside, so now you have the lights are on and the wipers. The cool thing here is you kind of get two speeds- slow and at idle, slower. People looking at you at a stop sign think you’re rocking out, but in reality your head is just following the wiper blade. Then you take off and things get better. You slow down to make your turn and now the brake lights are on as well. You hit the turn signal and guess what? There is not enough juice left to make the flasher work. Oh and this doesn’t count the fact that you’re listening to yourself sing because there just isn’t any AM stations worth a damn on your OE stereo.

 

So this is why converting to 12 volts is nice, but you have to weigh out the cost of what it’s going to take. In this I will list what you have to have, and what you can get away with for a while. You might want to go through the list and start collecting parts if you’re thinking about switching.

What you’ll need:

12v battery

Negative battery strap

Starter

Flywheel

Coil

Choke

Idle cut off

Generator or Alternator

Generator/Alternator stand

Gen/Alt strap

12v Gen/Alt pulley

3pc tin behind Gen/alt

Bulbs, brake/tail, turn signal, Lic plate, parking, dash lights, headlights, dome light

Turn signal relay/emergency flasher relay

Headlight relay

Wiper motor

Gas gauge

 

Ok so let’s take this one by one.

 

The 12v battery will be bigger than the 6v in most cases. This is not a problem if you get one that was made for a VW. Your 6v cover will not fit and the strap that held it down usually wont work. You can modify the strap or make a spacer so that the strap will hold it down. Another way is get a plastic box bolt it to the floor and then put the battery in the box. The big thing here is have a cover over the positive side of the battery or the whole top of the battery. Here’s why. When your cousin Tony gets in the back seat over the battery and the seat springs touch the post he is going to get a hot seat, and the battery can explode. Been there done that, got the t-shirt to prove it. Please strap the battery down. If you get in an accident and the battery flies around it will short out. Those of you with buses, even if you don’t get in an accident you are going to ruin your tail light bucket on that side because the battery will slide into it. Just take the time and get it secure.

 

As long as your negative battery strap reaches the post your good. A lot of times that strap is too short and you will just need a longer one. While you have it off, clean the area where it bolts to the body and use some dielectric grease here. That just insures no ground problems.

 

The starter is an area you can cheat. You can leave it 6v and leave the flywheel 6v. What is going to happen here is the starter will spin twice as fast. Sounds good right? Not really. What happens here is the gear spins so fast that sometimes it wont engage. This chews the shit out of the flywheel and needless to say is hard on the starter motor itself. You can't just change out the starter, you have to have a flywheel to go with it. There is however one trick that I have used. I buy a 12 high torque starter that has a removable gear. You can buy from the same place a 6v gear that will go on that starter. Pretty cool. So now your starter is 12v but the gears match and you don’t have to mess with the flywheel. Better yet, it is self supporting and doesn’t need a starter bushing. Hell, you don’t even need to take the engine out!

 

The flywheel is tricky. When changing a flywheel there is way more to it than just taking the old one off and putting a new one on. First, there are two types of mating surfaces. What we call a stepped flywheel (most 6v) and an o-ring flywheel. The o-ring flywheel will not fit right on a crank made for a stepped flywheel. You can take it to a machine shop and put a step in the flywheel or you can send your old flywheel to someone who has 12v ring gears and have your old flywheel turned down to accept a ring gear. Personally, it's way cheaper to do what I said with the starter above. The other thing is, you have to check your endplay and if it’s not right you will need to reshim it so it is. I’m not going to get into that in this article, but know this has to be done.

 

The coil is pretty straight forward. All I can say is please buy a 12 bosch blue coil. Don’t put a napa American coil on it. The real bosch coils are worth the money and are way better than that black American coil. Make sure you pay attention to where the wires go. Number 15 is the positive side and number 1 is the negative side. There should only be one wire on the negative side that goes to your distributor. The only exception here is if you have a tach.

 

The choke is an area you can cheat or sometimes have to cheat. I will explain. The 12v chokes for the carbs are all one size. The 6v chokes came in two sizes. Smaller than the 12v or the same size. So here are your choices. If you have the one that is smaller well you will no longer have a choke. Take the wire off at the choke and the coil. Now take the air cleaner off and loosen the three screws that hold the choke to the carb. Hold the accelerator arm open and rotate the choke clockwise until the choke flap is wide open. Then tighten the three screws back up. If you’re replacing the choke, pay attention to the hook on the choke and the arm that the hook catches in the carb. Place the choke element in the carb and then rotate counter clockwise until the choke flap just closes, again with the accelerator arm pulled down. After you’re done converting the whole car you will need to fire up the motor and let it warm up, making sure after the motor is warm that the choke is coming all the way off. In other words, that the flap is straight up and down. If it’s not then just loosen the screws and twist clockwise until it is. This, by the way, hooks up to the positive side of the coil.

 

If your carb has an electric idle cut off (most early carbs don’t) you can do two things here. Try and find a 12v one or what I do is just take it out, find the number on the side (that’s your jet size), and replace with an idle jet of the same size that is not a cut off jet. Make sure you take the wire off the coil. As a general rule here the choke and the idle cut off here was one wire. So if you’re running the electric choke then make a new wire without the chain for the idle cut off. If you’re not going to run a choke then take the chained wire off all together.

 

There are two ways to go with the generator/alternator. If you get a new alternator, most of the time the regulator is built into the alternator, so wiring is a piece of cake. The wiring goes: The two big red wires go to the threaded post and the blue wire to the push on post. One thing to keep in mind when using an alternator is that your idiot light on the dash has to work for the alternator to charge. If you have a non-working light,your alternator will not charge, period. If you are going with a generator then you will have to buy a regulator and find a place to mount it. Please don’t mount it to the fan shroud with self tapping screws. They will come loose and the regulator will fall down, causing a direct short and will possibly catch you car on fire. So find a better place to put it and use bolts and nuts. You will have to do a little wiring. The wiring goes:The two big red wires will go to the B+. The blue wire goes to the number 61. On the other side of the regulator, just match up the symbols to your generator. Colors and wire size should be 8 to 10 gauge red for the D+ and 12 to 14 gauge for the DF if you’re running a ground 12 gauge brown for the D-.

 

Regarding generator/alternator stands, the 12v stand is larger on all but a 1966 bus. If you have a 1966 bus with a 6v remote regulator you can skip this as well as the pulley, strap, and tin. For the rest of you, read on. Here is what you need to know about 12v stands. There are two types. A generator stand and an alternator sand. You can put a generator on an alternator stand but you can NOT put an alternator on a generator stand. So when you’re buying a stand, new or used, you have to know what you’re getting. This is an easy install. Just take your old one off, throw it in the neighbors yard, and install the new one. Those of you with type 3 pancake motors you have to change out the fan shroud. No such thing as new ones, so you will be on the hunt.

 

Now the strap. The 12v strap is just larger in diameter then the 6 volts strap. That’s it. Make sure before you put the belt on that you give the pulley a spin to make sure the fan isn’t rubbing, then tighten the strap. Give it another spin after the strap it tight again to check for rubbing of the fan to the tin. Those of you with the type 3 the strap is bigger as well.

 

The 6v pulley will fit the 12v generator or alternator but the offset is wrong. So you have to buy a 12v one. Type 3 guys, no worries as you can slide the generator back so the belt lines up.

 

How about the tin? Type 3s can skip this as there is no tin or fan. This tin is different than the 6v tin and no, your 6v tin wont work. The way it goes on is the flattest plate goes on first. If it has a hole in the face, that hole goes down. Place it over the two studs of the gen/alt then the small ring. Now the rear most plate. Look at it closely you will see and area on the edge of it that’s open. That again faces down. I use nylock nuts here as I don’t want these nuts backing off. You then just reinstall your fan hub and fan off your 6v generator. Before installing make sure your fan is not rubbing the tin. If it is, you might have to shim it with pulley shims. The fan nut torques so 40 ft lbs. You can reach around the back and use your torque wrench to tighten after you have it installed and the belt on. Don’t forget and don’t use an impact.

 

The bulbs are easy. Just count how many you have and buy the appropriate number to switch. You can leave the 6v ones in if you like and what you will notice is they will be really bright for about 3 seconds before they burn out. There’s no trick here, just remove and replace.

 

Trust me, the 6v turn signal/emergency relay will not work. On most of the 6v cars you can just get a three prong relay. This is for cars that do not have an emergency flasher. If you get a good german relay with the correct number it wires like this- 49 goes to the fuse box, 49a goes to the idiot light and the turn signal switch, 31 is ground, use brown wire. If your car has an emergency switch then you will have to spend the money and get the correct 12v one. On some early buses, they had a separate emergency flasher relay as well as the 3 prong relay. You can replace the 3 prong relay and there is no fix or part for the stand alone relay. I have found that when I just leave it hooked up the turn signals work fine. I have never turned on the emergency flasher to find out if the remote box will work or not. I am afraid of smoking the unit.  Whenever you’re doing wiring, pay attention to the colors and numbers. The number system is the same 6v to 12v. One of the hardest things to do is get the smoke back in the box once you let it out. So go slow and no drinking.

 

If your dimmer is on the turn signal switch and not on the floor then you have a headlight relay and you will have to change it to a 12v one. Here lies the problem. The old one is a four prong and the new one is a five prong. The fifth prong has to be hooked up or it will not work. The fix? Use a piggy back connector and jump the (56) to the (30). I use a red 14 gauge wire. The number (56) becomes hot when you turn the headlight switch on. By having that jumper, it will also power the (30) making it work. Keep in mind here the (s-) is a brown wire with a white strip that goes into the turn switch. Whatever you do, don’t hook that up to any other terminal.

 

The wiper motor is a biggy. There are a few ways to convert. If you’re rich, you can go find a 1967 only bug motor and install it in your bug. If you have a bus, then with some mods you can get it to work on that too. The nice thing about that motor is it has two speeds. The fast mode is nice and is way faster than the 6v by far. If you have a bug then and you’re getting a 67 bug motor then get a new switch too as it has both speeds on it. If you can't afford a new switch because you spent all you money on the motor then you can pick what speed you want when you turn it on. The only drawback is the “park” might be in a different spot than your old one. You can do two things here- Figure out the park cam inside the motor and get to park where you want it, or you can take off the wires for the “park” system and just have the speed wire. What happens here is when you shut off your wipers it stops where you shut the switch off. The other cheaper thing you can do is install a 12v armature in your motor. Much cheaper and easier way to go, however it doesn’t fit all motors and you will only have one speed. You can leave it 6v and have mach 5 wipers. This really doesn’t work at all. You can try volt drops but you might as well save the money to buy more beer, they are waste of time and money. Rain-X is another option, make sure to keep some in the car for touch-ups though.

 

Most early cars have no gas gauge or have a mechanical one. So nothing to do there. Those of you with electrical gauges just use them. Don’t ask me why, because I don’t have reason, but the 6v gauges work and don’t burn out. I have been using them for years on 12v and they work, so no money spent there.

 

So there you have it. That is what it takes to convert over to 12 volts. Is it worth it? To most it will be, especially on daily drivers, unless you really want to keep the car original. I have a few all OE cars and I love them, so I get it. The other cool thing about 6v cars is they always make for great stories.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Removing & Installing Crank Gears. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postremoving-and-installing-crank-gears https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postremoving-and-installing-crank-gears Fri, 29 Jun 2018 00:00:00 GMT Removing & Installing Crank Gears

In this article I will explain removing and installing the cam gear and the distributor gear on the crankshaft. If I had a dollar for every crank gear that I have thrown away due to someone taking them off with a hammer and punch I would be writing this article from a sandy beach in the mediterranean instead of from my cluttered desk. Please don’t take the gears off with a hammer and a punch. You will ruin them.

 

Here are a couple of correct ways to take them off. The easiest way is with a vw crank gear puller. You can usually buy one from you favorite vw shop or online. They are not cheap, but work really well. This is what I use.

The other way you can do it is in a press if you have one. You will use a set of jaws around the cam gear then press on the snout of the crank. Make sure you or someone else  is going to catch the crank so that it doesn’t crash down to the floor.

 

If you have a crank stand, great; If you don’t, you can mount your flywheel in a vice and bolt the crank to that. Mount the crank in the flywheel so that  the keyways are straight up. Use a hammer and small punch and drive out the small keyway on the end of the crank. Next, remove the oil deflector. That’s the concave washer behind the keyway. Using a set of spreader pliers, remove the snap ring that holds the gears on. Keep in mind the gears are a press fit. They will not slide off just because you took the snap ring off. This is where I see guys use a hammer and punch to get the gears off. Don’t be one of those people. If you have the VW gear puller, put it on so that you’re pulling on the cam gear. In other words, the jaw of the puller will be between the cam gear and the first large main bearing. You will be pulling both gears off at once. Before you start tightening the puller put some oil on the treads. Now tighten the puller bolt and the gears will pull off without ruining them. If you’re going to use the press then install your press jaws under the cam gear, tighten the jaws just snug. Now walk over to your press and set it up to press on the snout. Make sure that your crank is not going to hit any part of the press as you start pushing on the snout. Again, have your buddy get ready to catch the crank as it pushes through.

 

Now let’s talk about how to put them back on without ruining them. First and foremost, clean everything well. Inspect the teeth of the gears. If you see punch marks or chisel marks on the cam gear then just throw it away. What happens here is it mushrooms one or two of the teeth on the edge. It will not mesh well with the aluminum gear on the cam, causing a bind. Not good. Also look at your brass gear. If the teeth are chewed up that is from guys cramming the dist drive gear in. Also look to see if any of the teeth are folded over. It only makes sense to replace it if it is. Now that everything is clean and ready to go, place your crank back in your crank stand again with the keyways straight up. If your large keyway isn’t installed then install it. Make sure that it’s all the way in and that it’s level. That way the gears will go on easier. Now put oil on the main jurnal for the big main bearing under the gears. Put oil on the inside of that bearing. Gently put that bearing on with the dowel pin hole towards the flywheel.

 

Now let’s set up to put the gears on. I use a hot plate to heat the gears. Go to your tool box and find a large set of pliers big enough to grab the gear. You will be picking up the gears with these pliers to slide onto the crank. You can also grab a brass punch and small hammer (brass not steel). Turn your hot plate on high. Place the cam gear with the bevel towards the hot plate. This is the side we'll be putting towards the bearing you just put on. Now a trick I use is to squirt a couple of drops of oil on the top of the gear. Watch the oil. When the gear is hot enough it will thin out the oil and it will start to spread out over the gear. If you think you’re ready, grab the gear with your pliers and slide it onto the crank. It should slide right on. If it doesn’t, your gear is not hot enough. Place it back on the hot plate. If you get it half way on and it’s starting to grab the crank you can use your brass punch and gently tap it into place. If it doesn’t go gently then stop. Pull the gear back off with your puller and start over. If you have turned the gear blue, you overheated it and yeah, throw it in the trash (once it’s cooled down). Try again with another gear. Once that gear is on then install your gear spacer. There are no sides to this so you can’t screw up here. The opening goes with the key way.

 

Now the brass distributor gear. It’s brass so it does not take much time to heat up. I use the same method with the drops of oil. This gear should just slide on. Try not to use a punch on this gear as its really easy to fold over the teeth. If you find it won’t go on and you know it’s hot enough, you have overheated it and it is now egg shaped. There is no fixing it or making it round again. You can let it cool down and place it with the blue gear, in the trash.

 

Once both gears are on, install your snap ring. Make sure it goes into the groove. I also put the opening of the ring opposite the key way. Not that it matters, I just do. Now you can install you oil deflector. The cone faces the pulley. You do not need to heat this at all. After that, install your small nose main bearing again with the down pin towards the flywheel. Now the small pulley keyway. That’s it, you’ve done it. The first time is a little nerve racking, but once you get the hang of it it's not a big deal.

 

Things to look for while putting your block together that pertain to the crank gear:

You have your crank in the case half and you install your cam, lining up the timing marks. First, you should feel the backlash. You should have just a little. Rotate the crank with your hand and watch your cam. If it jumps out of the case, you might not have any backlash. Let’s say it turns fine but it comes around and gets tight or the cam wants to jump out in a certain spot. That is because someone has taken the gear off with a punch and has mushroomed some teeth and you didn’t spot it. If this happens to you, take the crank out and replace the gear. It will not wear in, it will wear out. Fix the problem. If you find you have no lash on your cam then first try changing the aluminum cam gear if it is a bolt on gear. If not, you will have to change the cam and or the crank gear. Yeah, I know it’s a hassle and costs money. Welcome to engine building.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Best Daily Driver - Final Part. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbest-daily-driver-final-part-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbest-daily-driver-final-part-air-tech Wed, 30 May 2018 00:00:00 GMT Building a daily - final components

 

Now let’s cover the remaining details so that you can build the best daily driver possible.

Compression ratio:

Here is another one you’re going to get 1000 opinions on, here is mine. I shoot for 7.7 on all bus motors. I might go a little higher on others, but usually not over 8.3. Keep in mind, where I come from it’s hot as hell plus I want to run on the cheapest gas I can. You can go higher, but then you’d have to be smart about your octane. Compression is horsepower, horsepower is energy, energy is heat. It’s a fine balancing act when you don’t have a radiator to shed the heat. I do build Friday/Saturday night cars with 9.5 to one, but they only run premium and you must always watch the temp gauge. What I’m trying to say here is figure it out, don’t just bolt stuff together. I am finding a lot of new heads have to be flycut to get my compression ratio up to 7.7 to one. Do what it takes to figure this out as it’s important to the life and power of your engine.

 

You’ll need to know your deck height (the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder when the piston is all the way up - do it for each cylinder) and the cc of the head. Then, with the bore and stroke it can be calculated. All I can say is I usually run a min of .060 deck height and am not a big fan of head gaskets of any kind on a daily driver.

At this point we should have a something out to the heads.

 

Ignition:

There are a lot out there, but I am a bang for the buck kind of guy. It’s hard to beat the trusted 009 with electronic ignition and real blue coil. There are better things out there, but it’s hard to go wrong with the 009. The other thing to think about here is if you have some random ignition and it breaks, are you going to be able to walk into any parts store and get another one? I think anybody with a VW has an 009 laying around to get you home. Same with the coil. Wires are up to you. I like the bosch stock wires or something of that nature.

 

Carberation:

Again, there are all kinds out there. This is what works well for me. Stock 1600 with an 90 cam. You can run the stock carb or a set of Kadrons or something like that. 1600 with an 100 cam. I would run the 40IDFs or the new 36DLRAs. A side note on the 36s, they come with a venturie that is too big. They work well, but only with the small vents. If you are ordering a set, get the smaller vents at the same time. 1776 or 2007 with at 110. The 40IDFs or the 40DLRAs.

 

Header:

Get a good header, that means a 4 into one with a merge. The merge then goes into a muffler with a smooth transition. There are some out there where the merge goes into the side of a muffler that’s not so good. All I can say is, think about getting from point A to point B with other people merging in. If you hit a wall guess what? Not so good, is it? So follow the path of your tubes, look inside your tubes. Is the merge designed to keep the flow going? After the merger does it hit a wall and have to go left or right? Or is it a nice turn? Again, there are a lot of headers out there. Think about what you’re buying.

 

Oil system:

I am a big fan of having your engine full flowed, a deep sump, external filter and a mesa oil cooler. If you don’t want to do that, at least have gauges on the car so you can tell if you’re getting into trouble before you’re in trouble. The three gauges I run on every motor is; oil pressure, oil temperature, and a tach.

 

Engine tin:
    I run the dog house style internal oil cooler, so that means all the tin that goes with it, plus the wider fan. Run the rest of the tin as well if this is an engine that goes in an engine compartment (not a baja or open engine deal). I am asked all the time about cool tin - the tins that go under the cylinders. There are two types. The little square ones or the bigger cool tins. Here is what I do. If you’re running heater boxes and the tin that goes between the heater box and the case, just use the little square ones. If you’re not running heater boxes and those tins I just mentioned, then run the larger cool tins. General rule here. If you’re engine is in an engine compartment, you shouldn’t be able to see the ground anywhere. On a type 3, you can’t help it as this engine compartment did not seal off the top half of the motor from the bottom. With the help of some local friends we have sealed them off and it did help with the temperature.

 

So there you have it, you are now ready to piece together a reliable daily driver engine.  Price out the parts, then add some to that for things you didn’t think about (like flowers for you wife since you’ll be spending so much time in the garage). Good luck!

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Best Daily Driver Part 4. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbest-daily-driver-part-4-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbest-daily-driver-part-4-air-tech Mon, 07 May 2018 00:00:00 GMT Ports:

Bigger in this case is not better. Let me explain. Vacuum is the exact opposite of pressure. With that said, if you start with a 2 inch pipe and neck it down to ½ don’t we have more pressure coming out of the ½ opening? Yes we do. So now go the other way. Suck through the ½ opening and see what kind of vacuum we have at the 2” opening. I will tell you it will be less than if it was ½ the whole way. So what we want in general terms, is a port that is not huge so that we have a vacuum signal for the carb(s) at low end. So on stock heads I leave the port alone. If you want to polish it up great, but no porting. On my bigger valve heads I have them just slightly opened up, more than anything blending the port to the new valve size. One thing I see a lot here is the port is not blended. In other words, if you take the valve out you will see how the port under the valve is the same size as the valve seat then narrows in the middle of the port then gets bigger or stays small up to where the intake bolts on. If you’re a dot in the air flow think about how you will travel down this tunnel. We want smooth gradual transitions.  There are a lot of cheap heads out there that advertise all you want to hear, but do your homework..

 

Pushrods and Rockers:

    These engines have long push rods and they are not straight to the rockers so this has always been a problem (More so on Friday/Saturday night motors or drag motors than daily drivers). This is what I like to do to beef this area up. First, I use the solid shaft rocker kit. This gets rid of the stock hair pin clips and spring washers. These take time to set up so please take your time and do it right. If you get it right you will never have a rocker slide over and ruin your valve stem end. Also, with that I use the swivel feet adjusting screws. This keeps the wear down on the valve stem end and if you are running stainless steel valves then you don’t have to run a lash cap with this style adjusting screw. The stock screw drags along the valve stem end and it doesn’t swivel, so in effect it is digging at the end of the valve stem. The only thing that keeps it from ruining the end is the hardest of the end. Stainless steel is softer than the factory valve, so if you’re running a stainless steel valve then this style of screw should be a must have.  Now I guess if you just have to have stock screws on the stainless steel valve then you can run a lash cap. Ok, now pushrods. You’re not running dual springs so in my opinion there is no reason to run chrome moly push rods. But, they’re stronger so why not? Here is why. We can all agree that aluminum grows faster and more than steel. We can also agree that our horizontally opposed motor expands when it gets warm. So now you have a motor that is expanding and a steel push rod that is not expanding as much or at the same rate. So what? Well think about it for a minute, doesn’t your valve lash get looser? Yes it does. VW has figured out that with an aluminum push rod that the valve lash will be X at temp. I guarantee it will be X plus with a steel push rod. So what? My valves are loose at temp. For every .001 it gets loose that is .001 the valve is not opening. Also think about this, if you hold your fist a ½ inch from the counter and strike it how much force is hitting the counter? Now hold your fist 8 inches from the counter. Does it do more damage? Hell yes it hurt my hand. Get what I am saying here? Keep in mind here, I am not against chrome moly push rods. I do run them, just not on a daily driver. When I do run them on Friday/Saturday night car I adjust my valves at .003 to try and make up for some of this growth problem. The problem with that is it’s so tight that you need to check your valves very often and I mean often. You see guys with drag cars adjusting their valves constantly. Here are my suggestions. On the 90 or 100 cam I use stock pushrods. On the 110 I use 3/8 aluminum. You don’t have to but, it’s extra insurance not to have a problem when running single heavy duty springs. As far as length goes, 99% of the time if you follow what I am doing you can use stock length. For more information on that please refer to an article I have previously written.

 

Up next will be our FINAL article on building the best daily driver engine

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[6th Annual Show & Shine]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/post6th-annual-show-and-shine https://wolfgangint.com/blog/post6th-annual-show-and-shine Wed, 28 Mar 2018 00:00:00 GMT

Posted in: Wolfgang Happenings

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<![CDATA[Best Daily Driver Part 3. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbest-daily-driver-part-3-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbest-daily-driver-part-3-air-tech Wed, 28 Mar 2018 00:00:00 GMT Building a Daily Driver Part 3

 

    If you’ve been following along with this article series on building the best daily driver engine, you know that we have already covered the general direction you’re going in, the importance of the right bore & stroke, and this article should clarify the correct case to start out with, your cam, and oil pump.

 

What case should you start with? By all means start with a dual relief case. Here’s how I get a case ready. If we are going to run a deep sump, which I highly recommend, one trick is to take out the studs and use long 6mm bolts from the inside out. This way there is no way to pull the stud out of the case, since the head of the bolt is on the inside you're not going to pull that through the case. If you are starting with a new case I usually replace the crappy pick up tube with a german one or CB performance sells a nice one with an extended pick up already on it.

 

Once you have the pick tube in place I mock up the sump on that half of the case with the screen and sump plate to make sure the pickup tube is the right length. Also I like to have an angle on the end so that  there is no way the pick up tube can get blocked by the sump screen or be too close to impede the hole that oil is getting sucked up in.

 

Next, check for cam to lifter clearance with the lifters you're going to run and the cam. I like to see .060 to .100 clearance here. If you have it, great, if not, find somebody that can cut the lifter bosses down so you do have that clearance. On an Engle 90 cam or a stock cam you should have plenty of clearance. Bottom line -  check it. Install your crank and push it back toward the flywheel end of the case and spin it. Two things to look at here. One, does it turn without hitting anything? Two, make sure that the rear thrust bearing is up against the back of the crank when the crank is pushed all the way back. If it is not, the chamfer in the bearing is smaller than the radius of the main journal. Not real common, but it does happen. There are two ways to fix this. If you have access to a lathe, make the chamfer larger. If you don’t (most people don’t) then buy a different brand of main bearing.

 

A note about case savers- make sure you have them. I use 10mm head studs so when I do a motor and it has 8mm ones I change them out to the 10s. I am not a fan of the 8mm studs. A lot of people are, just not me.

 

Next machine work to do is to full flow the case. Even if you can't afford an external oil system right now, do it anyways. If you don’t and want to add one later, guess what? You get to tear the motor all the way down to do it.

To check your oil pump stud length, set up your oil pump with the cover you’re going to use and the nuts. We want the stud to be just about flush with the nut. If not, buy studs or cut off studs that are too long.

Now to select a cam. There are a ton of cams out there. I, personally, am an Engle fan. That is not to say that other brands are bad or maybe even better. I just use engle and have had really good luck with them so I am sticking with them. I will give you the lift and duration so if you want to use another brand just get close to what I am listing. The biggest part of selecting a cam is the duration. A cam is most efficient in a 2 thousand rpm window. So pick the cam where your motor is going to spend most of its time or where you want the power band to be. I see way too many customers over caming their motors. I too have tried cams that are too big. Also keep in mind here that it’s the combination of parts that will make you motor a good one. One part that doesn’t work in sync with the others makes the motor only as good as the wrong part.

 

So here is my list. I know to most the numbers are not going to mean a lot, but I will also note where the cam in my opinion is the most efficient in a 2 thousand rpm window.

 

Stock 295 lift at the cam. 215 duration at .050.  range 2300 to 4300

Engle 90, 297 lift at the cam. 224 duration at .050 range 2500 to 4500

Engle 100, 383 lift at the cam. 236 duration at .050 range 3000 to 5000

Engle 110, 392 lift at the cam. 284 duration at .050 range 3500 to 5500

 

Which one should you use? You need to consider the rest of the combination. I personally don’t run stock cams anymore. The 90 is made much better and last way longer.

 

I would use a 90 cam with the following. Stock or two one barrel carbs, header or stock muffler, stock heads. 1600 cc

 

I would use a 100 cam with 1600cc, two, two barrel carbs like 40 idf or the new 36 dlra carbs, header, stock heads.

 

I would use a 110 cam on 1776 or 2007cc. two, two barrel carbs like 40 idfs, header and 40x 35.5 heads.

 

Now all those combos with a compression ration of 7.7 to 8.5

 

So why not a bigger cam than what’s listed? This is a daily driver, not a Friday/Saturday night car or a race car. This car is going to spend most of its life just cruising down the road, not racing. I have found that these motors like between 3200-3800 rpms for extended periods of time. That is not to say you can't rev it past that. What I am saying is they like that range for long periods of time. It is a long drive from redding to la in the middle of summer. A good 600 miles of dry heat. I have done a lot of testing on my own rigs to figure out what it takes to not have problems with these rigs. So if a cam is good for lets say 3500 to 5500rpms and you're going to run at 3800 lets say, why would you want a cam that starts to work well at 4000? Right? Well I have to say I have tried it and it always bites me. You can do whatever you want here, this is just what works well for me. The only other thing I can say here is please get lifters that are compatible with the cam you going to run. If you're not sure, then ask the cam manufacture. I can assure you he doesn’t want his cam to go flat and will suggest a lifter that works well with his cam.

 

The other question here is where should you run the cam? Advanced? Straight up? Retarted? What does all that mean? Well you can run the cam advanced to try and gain more power. This is done with gears that have offset washers and slotted gears. These gears cost more than just the standard straight up gear and my feelings are that bang for the buck here it’s just not worth it. Leave the standard, less expensive gear here and let’s spend the savings somewhere else.

 

Okay, now let’s talk about oil pumps. Like cams, there are a lot of them out there. I use Schadek pumps. That is not to say others are not just as good, that’s just what I use. When you pick out a pump, there are three things a good parts person should ask you. What case/block are you running? In this case we are running dual relief? What cam are you running? Flat or dished? Well if this is an aftermarket cam then it’s the flat cam. What size do you want? 26mm or 30mm? If this is a bug, ghia, thing, then I run the 26mm. If it is a bus then I run the 30mm. Why? Well I only run about 7 feet of oil cooler line on a bug, etc and on a bus I run around 14 feet so I want the extra 4mm. Does it hurt to run the bigger pump on the bug? No it doesn’t.

 

Once you have your pump you or someone should tap the outlet side of the pump to ¼ npt. This way you can thread a plug into the outlet side of the pump. This is for the full flow. If you’re going to set it up now, now is the time to buy the full flow cover. If you're not, then get a ⅜ npt plug for the case where the full flow return fitting would be. With the cam installed in one side of the case and its gear torqued down, install the pump. Spin the cam and make sure you have clearance between the cam bolts and the pump. Some grinding might be needed here on the pump and or the heads of the cam bolts.

 

So that is pretty much the internal parts of the engine. We will continue all the way out, so stay tuned for Part IV next month.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Best Daily Driver Part 2. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbuilding-a-daily-driver-part-2-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbuilding-a-daily-driver-part-2-air-tech Wed, 31 Jan 2018 00:00:00 GMT Building a Daily Driver - Part 2

 

The size of the motor is the bore and stroke. So what is a good size to have? Let’s talk about the two.

Bore- There is stock for a 1600. 85.5mm. Great bore size.

87 slip in. Not my favorite. The ID of the bore is 87mm, yet the OD is the same size as the 85.5 so as you can see the thickness of the cylinder wall is thinner. Here in Redding where it’s hot as hell in the summer, what you gain in hp is not worth what we lose in reliability. What does thinner cylinder walls have to do with reliability? We can all agree that the thinner a piece of metal is, the easier it is to warp. If your cylinder warps then you have a round piston in an eye shaped hole. Combustion is somewhat like a cutting torch. You are not going to cut the metal with the torch until you hit the trigger. The trigger is what? Its oxygen. Same thing happens in your cylinder. It's fine until the cylinder warps and the rings collapse on one side of the piston and don’t seat on the other. If the combustion sees oxygen from the crankcase, it will start cutting or burning the piston where the gap or air is coming from. Now I am not saying this is going to happen if you are running 87 slip in. What I am trying to say is for me in this heat we have here in Redding it is not worth the risk.

88mm big bore. These are good but I have to say if you're going to bore your case and heads then why not just run the bigger 90.5mm pistons.  I have run the 88mm and had good luck with them. My deal is they cost the same as the 90.5 and the machine work costs are the same.

90.5mm big bore. This is my go to big bore. They have the same OD on the cylinder as the 92mm big bore. So a nice thickness to the cylinder wall. When boring the heads we do not cut into the head stud holes as you would on a 94mm cylinder.

92mm big bore. Truthfully I haven’t run these since the 90.5 came out in the 80’s. The reason is the same as the 87mm slip in. I will give up a few cc’s for a thicker cylinder wall. Now with that said they do make a thick wall 92mm big bore. This cylinder has the same OD as the 94mm cylinder. So plenty thick. I have run them and had good success. I would never start out running them. I only run them if my heads are already cut for the 94mm.

94mm big bore. I am going to take a lot of flack for what I am going to say. I like 94mm big bore for a Friday,/Saturday night car or a drag car. I am not a fan of them on a daily driver. Here is my reasoning. When you cut a head for 94mm cylinders you cut into the head stud holes. Now if you think about it or look you will see a crescent moon shape around the hole where the cylinder sits. So now your sealing surface is less between the head and the cylinder. If the head comes loose enough to expose that air, guess what? Cutting torch again. I have seen it a few times. Guys spend some good money on heads just to torch one.

 

Stroke - There is 69mm which is the stock stroke. Nothing wrong here at all. If you are going with 85.5 cylinders then the stock stroke is fine. Adding counterweights is a good thing, but not necessary. The nice thing about this stroke is you typically don’t need machine work to the case. If you are thinking 90.5 cylinders then that makes a 1776cc motor. This combo is good for all cars but not in a bus in my opinion. The short stroke and big piston make for a motor that winds up fast but doesn’t have a lot of torque for a bus.  The other thing for me is it only cost a grand less than a 2007cc motor and bang for the buck, I rather have the 2007cc motor.

74 or 76 stroke cranks are not bad, but cost the same as a 78. The machine work is going to cost the same so not a big fan of them. Again nothing wrong with them just bang for the buck not sure I am going to use those strokes unless I have one and just trying to save money.

82 plus size stroke. These are not a bad way to go but you should use a longer rod with strokes that big or bigger. What is wrong with that other than price? The motor gets wider. Which means lots of things you wouldn’t think about like custom barrel shims, push rods, tin doesn’t fit, etc. Doesn’t your motor get wider with a 78mm crank? No. Here is my secret. I use the 90.5 piston and cylinder kit made for an 82 stroke crank. What they do here is move the wrist pin up. It gives me the deck height I need with the compression I want with little or no barrel shim. So the motor stays the same width.

One last note, I am not a cast crank fan at all. The factory stock cranks are forged. So if you are spending your money I would get a forged crank. Also, out of the box you should send it to a crank grinder and just have it miked out. This will tell you if the crank journals are on the high side, the low side, whether they are hourglass shaped or even tapered. Just because it’s new doesn’t mean it perfect. It’s worth the money to have it checked and ask for a sheet that has all the numbers. I have never seen a perfect crank with all the four points perfect. My concern here is we are in the middle or on the high side of the wear limit. Example: (std) 2.1640 is the low side and anything under will have to be turned. 2.1650 is the high side. So numbers like 2.1645 is the middle.

 

Keep in mind you can have the best combo size in the world but the rest of the parts have to work with this. Think about it this way. All the engine parts have to work together as a team to get what we want. If one is out of sync then it throws off the whole deal.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Best Daily Driver Part 1. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbest-daily-driver-part-1-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postbest-daily-driver-part-1-air-tech Wed, 29 Nov 2017 00:00:00 GMT Building a Daily Driver - Part 1

 

I have been getting asked alot what is a good engine combo for a daily driver. This is such a loaded question and everybody has their opinion on this subject. So I am going to explain how I pick out a motor combo and why. I suggest you listen to my opinion and the opinion of others and form your own. This will have to be broken up into a few different articles to adequately explain. In this first part we need to explore what your plans are for the car.

 

To me, a daily driver is a car we can hop in and drive and drive out of town and go anywhere anytime. This motor is one that you build and have only the normal maintenance, like adjusting the valves, oil changes, and spark plugs. I want to be able to put this motor in and not take it out for years. I want to be able to drive it to and from work and go on any trips for any distance that I want. Reliability here is key.

 

Some things to consider - What kind of vw are you building this combo for? I will build a motor a little different for a bus then I will for a bug. For example when setting up the compression ratio, I will lean towards a lower ratio for a bus then I would for a bug. Why? Because you're pushing a brick through a wind tunnel with a bus and more than likely you will at some point over load the bus, because you can. So in a bus motor we need all the help we can get with heat issues. Where do you live? Do you live in the mountains where you will be pulling a lot of hills? If so, you will want more low end torque. If you live where it's mostly flat, you can get away with less power which means less money. What is the temperature in the summer and winter where you live, and is it humid? This will determine whether you need an external cooler and such.

 

Power -  What kind of power are we looking for? This is a biggy. We all want power, but at what cost? More power can mean less reliability and reliable power is so not cheap. Also, the more power the more maintenance we have to do. We have to be realistic here. The trick here is we want a tractor motor, not a rocket type motor.  So ask yourself if you're ok with the power you have now? Are you wanting a little more? Are you wanting more than a little more?

 

Money - Oh yeah, the wallet. How much are you willing to spend to get what you want? Horsepower can be cheap and  run fast but for how long? Reliability is not cheap. Everyone talks about how much power they make, but I don’t see too many people talking about how long their motor lasts. VW motors are not cheap anymore and the quality means you better know your brands.

 

Our choice - Our favorite daily driver option is hands down the 2007cc engine. We think this will give you the traveling power you need, while staying reliable and not having to do any extra maintenance. A 1600 dual port/1600S is also a good option if you’re looking for a more budget friendly build that is not as powerful.

 

Follow along on the next few articles for some breakdowns on engine specs, and to understand why we came to this conclusion.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Point Vs. Electronic Ignition. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postpoint-vs-electronic-ignition https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postpoint-vs-electronic-ignition Fri, 03 Nov 2017 00:00:00 GMT Points vs Electronic Ignition.

     Trying to decide between points or an electronic ignition? Let’s go look at both. I will start by saying I prefer the electronic, but let’s look at points first. Points are basic, and that inherently is their advantage. No ohm tester needed, just put them in and they work. How do you set points? I’m sure most of you reading this already know, but let’s go through it anyway. It’s really handy if you have a distributor screwdriver (a screwdriver that will hold a little screw on the end of it). Install your points making sure the base plate is sitting down flat. Most points have a little divet that sticks down past the base plate that needs to go in a hole in the distributor or the points will be off- not good. Once the screw is started just barely snug it. Make sure the rub block is touching or is close to the lobes of the distributor shaft. Now turn the engine over by hand until the rub block is on the highest part of one of the lobes. It doesn’t matter which one. With your screwdriver you will see a notch in the base plate of the points and area of the distributor that has a tit sticking up. Take your screwdriver and put it in between that. By rotating your screw driver you can open or close the points. If it doesn't open or close easy then loosen the screw a tad. With your .016 feeler gauge open the points so you can just slide the gauge through without lifting the rubbing block off the lobe. Once you have it set, tighten the screw and recheck. Do not crank down on the screw, snug is fine. Now hook the wire up to the condenser and you're good to go. If your replacing the condensers, make sure you hook it up to the negative side of the coil. If you hook it to the positive side you will have a point melt down the minute you hit the key.

     The downside of points? They wear out. I remember when points would last a year or more, but that’s not the case anymore. Not even the Bosch ones last that long it seems. It’s a damn good idea to carry a spare set with you.

     Now let’s look at electronic. There are tons of different brands and set ups. I am going to cover the basic one that fits the stock style distributors.

     Bang for the buck, electronic is a great way to go. A big advantage here is that they usually last a really long time. I have had mine in my car for 13+ years. The timing never changes due to points closing up. Just install and for most part you’re done. If you follow the instructions on how to put them in it’s really easy. One problem I see here is paying attention to how the wires come out of the distributor. Make sure no internal parts that spin in the distributor are going to rub a hole in the wires. Ok now the biggy, make sure you read what wire goes where on the coil. Most of the time the red goes to the positive and the black to the negative. Make sure the black wire coming from your car’s ignition switch is on the positive side. If you hook this up wrong in any way there is a really good chance you’ll fry it the minute your turn the key on. Therein lies one of the disadvantages. I would tell you to carry a spare, but damn an $80 spare? Just carry a set of points and condenser in your glove box as a spare. The second disadvantage to electronic ignition is if you leave the key on for any reason without starting the car you can cook it. Example: I was checking my turn signal lights and now my car wont start. Yeah, you cooked it buddy. If you're going to be checking anything electrical with the key on make damn sure you disconnect the black wire that comes from the ignition switch to the positive side of the coil. Make sure it won't touch metal and then you can turn the key on and do what you want.

     For some quick testing, this trick works on both points and electronic. Grab a test light. If you don’t have one get one and keep it in your car. Hook the clip to a ground and put the probe to the positive side of the coil. Have Larry turn the key on. Does the test light light up? If not, your problem is getting power to the coil and more then likely your distributor parts are fine. If yes, move to the next step. Place the probe on the negative side of the coil. Have Larry try and start the engine. Does the light come on and stay on? If it does, the points might not opening and a reset or new points are in order. If you have electronic then it’s cooked. Does the light not come on? This could be coil, or the points are broken off or for some weird reason they opened up. If you electronic then again, it’s cooked. If the light flashes as the motor is turning over then everything is working fine and you should be looking for problems elsewhere.

     So there you have it. I prefer electronic to points as they tend to be less maintenance. With that said, I will still keep a set of points and condenser with me, just in case I am out on the road and have a problem I don’t have to call a tow truck.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Stock Vs. Power Pulley. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/poststock-vs-power-pulley-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/poststock-vs-power-pulley-air-tech Mon, 02 Oct 2017 00:00:00 GMT Power Pulley Vs. Stock Pulley

 

       We all know what a stock size pulley is, but does everyone know what a power pulley is? And if it actually gives you more power? How does a pulley do that? It's not driving a supercharger, so how does it work? In this article, I will explain pro and cons to both and where the power comes from.

 

       The stock size pulley is approximately 6 ¾” where the power pulley is approximately 5 ¾” inches or smaller. So if the power pulley gives us free horse power why not put that pulley on everything? Well because it makes power by turning the fan slower. Huh? Yep, that’s right. Think about it. It takes power to turn that fan and generator. If you reduce the rpms on the fan and generator then in effect you will gain power. I don’t have the exact number on how many horses you will gain with this, but I am sure it’s not much. Do we really want to spin the fan slower? That depends.

Here is my experience. On a daily driver where the rpms don’t really go above 3800 for extended time or when the motor is not gaining rpms at a rapid rate, then I would want the stock size pulley. This way I have the maximum cooling from the fan. I will give up the little amount of hp to keep the motor cooler. On a Friday/Saturday night car, it’s a 50/50. If you can get away with a stock size without flipping or throwing off the belt, do it so that you have the extra cooling aspect. If you are jumping on it a lot and throwing belts, then I would opt for the power pulley. For a race car or off-road car with a bigger hp motor then I would still go with the power pulley. Not so much for the hp, but because if you have a motor that can gain rpms quickly then you run the risk of throwing the belt off with a stock size pulley. The smaller the pulley the less likely you are to throw or flip a belt. Those of you who have done it know what I am talking about. It doesn’t seem to matter how tight the belt is, if your motor gains rpms too fast it will flip or come off. Serpentine systems work well for the street and they won’t have the belt problem a standard pulley system has as far as flipping or throwing a belt. However, there is one drawback that I have found with the serpentine system. The belt does not slip. So back to the Friday/Saturday night or race motors. If your motor can gain rpms fast I have seen the fan explode from that sudden rpm rate. “What? Really?” Yes, the stock fans are more or less pressed together. I am sure you have heard the term welded fan. Well this is where they weld the fins of the fan to the outer plates that make up the fan. It keeps the fins from flying apart. I have seen exploded fans and it’s not a pretty sight. The blades can do some damage. I have seen the top of fan shrouds blown apart, cylinder fins broke off, fin blades stuck in the head, etc.

 

So that’s pretty much it. If you have a daily driver I would stay stock size, the small bit of HP you gain is not worth the decrease in cooling. I am all for degree pulleys, but again stock size on a daily driver. On the Friday/Saturday night car, if it was me I would start with a stock size and make sure you keep an eye on the gen light when you are jumping on it. If you find that you are flipping the belt or throwing it, then I would go to a power pulley.  On a race motor or hopped up off road motors I would just start out with a power pulley. Your rpms will be all over the place and more than likely a lot of times over 4K. You’re not going to be paying attention to a light or a gauge and you don’t want to run the risk of throwing the belt. Serpentine belt systems again a good way to go but if your motor has any big horse power I would so put a welded fan on.

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[How To Replace Your Windshield Seal. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/posthow-to-replace-your-windshield-seal-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/posthow-to-replace-your-windshield-seal-air-tech Mon, 21 Aug 2017 00:00:00 GMT      We got a lot of rain this winter, followed by a lot of sun and heat, so in this article I am going to tell you how to replace your windshield seal (works on any stationary seal).


     First, we need to get the old one out. It’s better to cut the old one out than to try and push it out. You’ll need a sharp knife with a fixed or locking blade. Standing outside of the car, push the tip of the knife between the glass and the rubber. Now press down slightly and slide the knife, cutting the rubber. At some point, you will feel the tip hit metal. Hey, you’re through the seal. Do that all the way around the glass. Then peel off the outer part of the seal. On seals that are hard as a rock this takes some effort. When this is done, we should be looking at the glass still stuck to the inner part of the seal. In most cases, you can gently push on the glass from the inside and have your buddy Al catch the glass. If it’s not easy to push you might have to use your knife on the inside as well. Main thing here is don’t want to break the glass. Once it’s out, peel the rest of the old seal out. Now clean up the area the seal sits in. Do any rust repair that you deem necessary.


     Next, prep the window to go back in. Use some glass cleaner and get it clean. I don’t get carried away here because I will be putting lots of fingerprints on it when I get around to installing it. Just make sure the edge is clean. Do not use dish soap on the front window. You can on any other window but not the front. The reason is the front is what is called a laminate window. In other words, it has a piece of plastic between two pieces of glass. If you use dish soap it will delaminate the glass and in about a month you will get these weird looking flowers sprouting from the edges of your window. Ok, back to prep. Grab your window and have a seat. I put the top edge away from me. Now have your new window seal handy. Find the seam where the seal was glued together. I put that on the top, some people put that on the bottom- It doesn’t really matter, I just think it looks better on the top. Find the groove that the glass sits in. Center the seam with the center of the windshield. Make sure you have the outside of the rubber facing out. It really sucks to get the rubber on just to find out you have it on inside out. Open the groove as best you can and push it onto the glass. Make sure you get the glass bottomed out in the groove on the seal. I go a foot or so one way then a foot or so the other. Then get the sides on. At this point, flip the glass over in your lap and work on the bottom. Do not use any type of slippery stuff here as we want the rubber to stay put on the glass once we push it into the groove. If your fingers hurt you’re doing it right. Now the fun part. If you have an American style seal that takes the molding or trim you’re in for a treat, they are a pain in the ass, and now is the time to do it. If you’re not and have a Cal look seal that doesn’t take the molding you can skip the next few sentences.

     I lay my windshield on a pair of sawhorses with a blanket between the sawhorse and the glass. Lay your molding out on the rubber. Gently open the groove it goes in and start stuffing the molding in. A hook tool helps here. Once you’re done cussing at it and it’s in, there are clips that have to be installed that join the molding together. I slide it over one side of the molding and leave it there until the window is installed.  Take a break, you earned it.  


     The last part of the prep. Find a 12-gauge wire or a rope longer than the circumference of the window. Find the center of the bottom of the window and the groove that lips over the metal of the window opening. Now leave a foot or so of wire sticking out and start working the wire into the groove. There is a tool for inserting a rope into this groove, a handle with a hollow tube. The rope goes through the tube and out the handle. If you don’t have the tool that’s fine it just takes a little more work. Lay your wire in that groove until it’s all the way around and overlaps a few inches on the bottom. It’s ready to put back into the car.


The figure below helps to demonstrate what we mean when we say that pulling your rope or your wire should guide the seal in.



     If the car is ready, rub some dish soap on the opening from the lip out. If you have headliner on part of the opening skip the dish soap here as it will loosen up the glue. The dish soap helps the rubber slide around as we install the window. Place the glass into the opening with your wire ends into the car. Center the window. Make sure the rubber is up against the metal lip. It’s time to pull it in. Have Al on the outside. Tell him to keep one hand on the top of the windshield and keep it there till the last foot of pulling it in. This prevents the whole thing from sliding up and out. With his other hand have him follow you around as you pull the wire, applying just enough pressure to the area to keep the rubber against the lip. No more than that. You’re on the inside of the car. Take one end of the wire and pull towards the center of the windshield. This will pull the rubber lip up and over the metal lip. Go about six inches one way then six inches the other. Al with his one hand should be following you. When you get to the top and about the last foot have him back off on the pressure as you are flexing the glass a little here. Once you have it pulled in, look at the inner lip. Is it all the way down? If yes you’re golden. If not don’t sweat it just yet. Go outside the car and make sure your outer tip on the rubber is not rolled. If it is, take a small pocket screwdriver and unroll it. Be careful here because it’s easy to scratch the paint. Once the lip is rolled out look again on the inside. Are we good? If yes, you’re done. If not, then use the palm of your hand and hit the rubber seal where it’s not all the way down on the inside. You should see the window suck in. Once in, you’re done. The first one is a learning experience, but once you do the second one it’s not bad at all. Those of you with bay window busses make damn sure the window is centered and have extra buddies to help.


Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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<![CDATA[Full Flow Oiling. AIR-TECH]]> https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postfull-flow-oiling-air-tech https://wolfgangint.com/blog/postfull-flow-oiling-air-tech Wed, 26 Jul 2017 00:00:00 GMT Full Flow Oiling

 

     What does that mean and how does it work? Most of you reading this know what this is, but do you really know how it works? You might already know all this but there might be something on this you didn’t know.

     First of all, what does Full Flowing a case mean? Well what it refers to is drilling and tapping one of the oil galleys on the engine case for a return line. Then what is done is the outlet passage on the pump or the case is plugged. A special cover is then used on the oil pump that routes the oil out a fitting. So what is happening here is all the oil that comes to the pump from the sump is pushed through a hose that can go to a filter, it then can go to an external cooler and then back to the case. Make sense? Why is this better than just taking off the stock cooler and putting on an adapter that routes the oil to and from the case? I will explain why it's much better here, but I think we first have to look at how the stock oiling system works on these cases.

full flow stock.png


full flow stock compressed.png

     Please look close at the drawing and let's follow how it works stock. The oil gets sucked out of the sump, goes through the pump and then hits an oil galley right above the front pressure spring. If the oil is thick (cold) then the spring is depressed and the oil travels right to the main galley and feeds everything. If the oil is thinner (warm) then the piston stays up and the oil is now routed up to the oil cooler galley. After running through the cooler it routes back down and hits the main galley. Where again it feeds everything. This oil cooler galley is never shut off. What happens is it sees pressure from both ends and in effect dead heads. In other words; when the piston is down,  pressure is hitting the in and the out of that galley, so the oil doesn’t go anywhere, just sits in the galley. When the piston is up then it in effect opens the return side of the oil cooler galley and allows oil to flow through it. Got it? Ok here is two more pictures with the oil piston up and with it down. Make sense now? That is how the stock system works. Now lets add the full flow system.

 

full flow.png

 

     Let’s say we have a filter and an external cooler. We have drilled the oil galley right in front of the pressure piston. This is the return line. We have the outlet galley from the pump blocked off and are now routing the oil out the oil pump cover. Oil is sucked out of the sump and to the IN side of the oil filter adapter. Then from the outlet side of the oil filter to the external oil cooler. From the oil cooler back to the case. From there the case acts as if it was stock. Oil cold, the piston goes down and oil is fed to the main galley. Oil is warm, piston stays up and oil now goes through the stock oil cooler, and then hits the main galley. I am sure by now you get how it all flows.

     Now why is this better than just getting rid of the stock cooler and adding an adapter on top the routes oil in and out? Here is my answer. That galley only works when the oil is warm. Where are all the impurities in your motor in the morning? On the bottom, right? Where is your pick up tube for the oil pump? On the bottom right? So now we take that and shove it into the main galley. You are not filtering oil until the oil is warm because your oil cooler galley doesn’t work until the motor is warm. Now with full flowing, 100% of your oil comes out of the pump and goes through your filter before it even hits the pressure spring. Got it? So 100% of your oil is going through a filter. NICE. Here is another reason it's better. I live in Redding CA. Those of you who have been here in the summer know that it is damn hot. Over 100 degrees is not uncommon here every summer day and we have zero humidity. Here is what is happening on this setup when you drive in this hot weather. When I am driving down the road at 3800 rpms my external cooler is working as air is going through the cooler. My internal cooler is working because the oil is hot. So both coolers are working. When I am sitting in traffic the external is seeing oil but there is no air blowing through it, so its not working as well as it could. My internal is working because the fan is blowing air through it. Keep in mind the engine is at idle so its not working hard at all and the stock cooler is enough. This system works well for me here in Redding. Keep in mind here I do not mount the external oil cooler or filter in the engine compartment.

     Ok this all sounds great, how can I do this to my motor? Well if your motor is together that’s bad news because the oil galley has to be drilled and tapped for the fitting. If you do it with the motor together there is a good chance you're going to get metal shaving in the main oil galley. They are going to get shoved right into the main bearing the minute you start it. So I wouldn’t do it. If you have your motor apart but can't afford the external parts that is ok too. You can just put a plug in the hole that was drilled and tapped. Leave the pump alone and run it until you can afford the rest. Then you can always pull the oil pump plug it, add your full flow cover, then remove the return line plug and put the fitting in.  Beats the hell out of tearing the motor apart again.

     Here are some mistakes I have seen. The case is drilled and tapped. The cover is put on with the fitting. The hoses are hooked up to the cooler and filter. What they forgot is to plug the outlet passage of the pump. The external hoses and set up was fighting the internal galleys and the motor starved for oil and the motor seized up. Another one is a shop built the motor and put caps on the oil pump and return fitting. Why? Because the plumbing is on the car not the motor. Customer put the motor in and did not hook up the lines. He started the motor and the oil pump hydraliced and guess what no oil pressure. Even if the pump didn’t hydralic all the oil comes out of the cover. The cover was capped. Hello! No oil is going back to the motor, yeah it seized. One of the most common mistakes is a cheap tin oil filter. The oil pressure from the pump is high. It is not uncommon to blow up a cheap filter. I only use System One style filters that can handle the pressure.

     If you’re in an area that sees any sort of heat, or just want to make sure 100% of your oil is being filtered, full flowing your case is the way to go.This industry has been doing it for years and there is a reason why; It flippen works and works well!

Posted in: Air Tech Articles, Tech-Tips

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