Front End Play. AIR-TECH

Ever drive a bus in the wind with 4” of play in your steering wheel? Most people just start throwing money and parts at it until its gone. You can waste time and money doing that, or you could just replace what’s really wrong with it. In this article, I will tell you how to check where your play is coming from.

    To check where the play is; first you have to get your car up on ramps. You CANNOT do this with the front wheels hanging. With no load on the parts, no problems will show up. I cannot express enough how you have to have a load on the wheels.

    For standard Bugs, Ghias, Things, and T3s, it’s helpful if you take the gas tank out. First thing to do is have your buddy Tim turn the steering wheel back and forth just through the play, don’t make the wheels turn. Now, place the palm of your hand on the pitman arm (The arm that comes out of the steering box). With Tim turning the wheel, feel if the arm is going up and down before it turns. If it is, the bushings in the steering box are bad and a new one is in order. With your hand still on the pitman arm, feel if the two inner tie rod ends are jumping up and down before they push or pull. If so, there is a bad part. Now, check the outer tie rod ends. To do this, climb under the car and put your hand on the tie rod end. If it’s jumping, it’s bad (Note: The inner driver’s side tie rod end has a slight bend in it on purpose. If it’s on the outer and not the inner, the ends on that tie rod wear out much faster than they should, as they will wear out prematurely). While under the car, look at your kingpins if this is a king & link pin car. Can you see the king pin rocking before the spindle turns? If so, it’s time for some rebuilt spindles. If we are good there, have Tim grab the top of the tire and try to move it in and out. Look for play such as the link pins moving. (Just so you know, the king pin is what allows the spindle to turn. The link pin is what allows the spindle to go up and down). On ball joint cars this is tough. I have seen ball joints that have no play, but are worn out. Again, have Tim move the top of the tire in and out. If you see play, get some new ball joints right away. Also, if you see ripped ball joint boots that is a sure way for the joints to wear out fast.

Keep in mind that a ball joint rides in a slot in the joint. If you car is lowered, the joint has a tendency to bottom out in the slot, wearing it out. A fix here is to have lowered spindles; this way the joint is in the stock position in the slot. Or you can buy lowered ball joints. The slot the joint rides in is longer so it has more room to travel.

    Same thing for buses up to 1979, you have to have the front wheels on ramps. Once up on ramps, we need Tim to turn the steering wheel back and forth through its play. With you under the bus, put the palm of your hand on the nut that comes out of the steering box that holds the pitman arm on. Two things here: 1) See if you can feel the arm moving from side to side before the arm pushes or pulls. If so, the bushings in the box are bad. 2) Look to see if the shaft is rotating before the arm moves. If so, the nut is not tight. Next, put your hand on the drag link end that is attached to the pitman arm. See if it’s jumping before it moves. I have seen brand new drag link ends go bad in a matter of weeks (New doesn’t always mean good). If all that checks out ok, move to the drag link end that is on the center pin arm. See if it is jumping before it moves the arm. Next, slide under farther so you are now on the backside of the front beam. Put your hand on the two inner tie rod ends. We are looking to see if your ends are jumping or if the center pin arm is moving up and down before it turns. Do the same with the outer ends. Next, look at the kingpins. If your bus has a king & link front end, have Tim grab the top of the tire and try and move it in and out. Look closely at the king and the link pins. Ball joint buses are the same deal as ball joint bugs as far as front end play.

    “I still have play, now what?” The problem could be your adjustment on your steering box or the placement of the steering wheel. Here is how the steering box works: When the peg or roller is in the middle of the worm, it’s at its tightest point. As you go left or right, it gets progressively looser. If your steering wheel has been relocated, then it might be in a loose part of the worm gear. If that is the case, your steering can be loose when straight and tight as you turn back to the center of the worm. If you find yourself in that position, take off your inner tie rod ends or in the case of a bus, take off your drag link arm. Turn the wheel all the way left and then all the way right. Count the turns. Then back up half way. This will make sure the steering box is in the center of its worm gear. Now relocate the steering wheel if you have to and readjust your tie rods or drag link so that when the car is going straight the steering wheel is straight.

    Still have play? Maybe the box needs adjustment. if you’re not careful here, you can ruin a steering box fast. Make sure there is no load on the box; So inner tie rods or drag link off. Now, make damn sure the steering box is centered as described above. Now, loosen the jam nut for the adjustment and tighten the screw until you feel it hit. You’re driving the peg or roller into the worm gear. Now back off the screw until it’s just free. Turn the steering wheel back and forth a little. If you feel in bind, you’re tot tight and back if of a little more. Once you can turn the wheel back and forth with no bind, lock the nut down.

    One last note, if you have play in any part of the steering parts it adds up in the steering wheel. So a ½” play in a tie rod end and ½” play in a spindle means 1” play in the steering wheel. Don’t be too quick to adjust the steering box until you have checked the other parts first.